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ANTWERP, BELGIUM

by Joseph Pedro gay travel antwerp belgium

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It may not be as well known as Brussels, but the northern Flemish city of Antwerp has a location on the River Scheldt that has allowed it to become a thriving cosmopolitan center and a must-see cultural destination for LGBT travelers.

The Port of Antwerp has been a crucial access point and trade hub for mainland Europe since the late 15th century, and because of it, Antwerp has a rich history of wealth and prestige. The importance of the river is exemplified in a prevailing legend that explains the origin of the city’s name. When ships arrived, a giant named Antigoon would demand a hefty monetary toll. This was until he met a Roman soldier named Silvius Brabo who chopped off the greedy giant’s hand (a common practice at that time) and threw it into the river, hence the name hantwerpen or “hand throwing.” The large bronze statue in front of City Hall in Grote Markt is the most famous representation of the story. The hand has become the unofficial symbol of the city, and it can even be seen in sweet shops as the ever-popular souvenir—the chocolate hand.

Signs of the city’s wealth from the mercantile era are seen in the gorgeous architecture, from the goliath Cathedral of Our Lady to the stunning Guild Houses that surround the Grote Markt (all built in the epic Flemish Renaissance style). Today, Antwerp’s main symbol of affluence is the diamond trade. Nearly 80% of the world’s diamonds, at some point, pass through the city.

Same-sex marriage has been legal in Antwerp since 2003, so if you’re looking for something truly special, make an appointment at Mac Precious Stones (Appointments only. Tel: 03-231-9171) with Michaël Suchowolski who is a diamond trader on the Diamond Stock Exchange. He’s recently been taking lots of orders for unique same-sex marriage bands, and can help you pick out something you’ll cherish forever. Jewelers that are more traditional and very well respected by locals include Slaets NV (De Keyserlei 42 & 46-48. Tel: 03-231-9171. www.slaets-juwelen.be) and Tensen Juweliers (Huidevetterstraat 46. Tel: 03-231-2139. www.tensen.be).

Along with diamonds and jewelry, you can’t talk about Antwerp without also talking fashion. This stylish city has been making waves in the fashion world since the late 1980s when a group of designers set up a truck outside London Fashion Week and displayed their collections. Their radical, couture fashion caused such a stir that the group garnered the nickname the Antwerp Six. With a strong sense of native Flemish style and designs, Antwerp is also home to a shopping experience similar to that of Milan, New York, or London. From high-end designers to funky and trendy boutiques, there is no shortage of places to drop a few hundred Euros. Visit the Meir for the high-end retailers like Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Ralph Lauren, etc. For more trendy and funky shopping, don’t pass up a trip to Kammenstraat. While there, pay a special visit to Mode Museum (Nationalestraat 28. Tel: 03-470-2770. www.momu.be). Devoted to everything fashion, the Mode Museum is housed in a restored 19th-century building and is a must-stop for the fashion-conscious traveler. Each year, Mode opens up its collection for just two themed exhibits. Until August 14, 2011, you can check out an entire exhibition on knitwear called “Unravel: Knitwear in Fashion.”

This year, Antwerp unveiled the Designers Against AIDS’ International HIV/AIDS Awareness Educational Center (www.designersagainstaids.com). Designers Against AIDS is an organization created and run by an international array of people in the fashion industry. Using fashion and art, the organization helps raise money and awareness for HIV/AIDS. From pop-up stores to large campaigns with stores like H&M, these do-good designers work throughout the year to positively affect change. The new education center, built late last year, is a stylish building that hosts international student activists and provides them with the tools needed to lead an effective prevention and awareness program in their home communities. Check their website for annual events and how you can further support them.

Once home to Peter Paul Rubens, Anthony Van Dyck, and Jacob Jordaens, Antwerp’s history of artistic creativity is only matched by the city’s modern-day love of the fine arts. This year, Antwerp will see the largest expansion of its cultural scene in decades, when the Museum Aan De Stroom (Suikerrui 19. Tel: 03-220-8600. www.mas.be) or MAS for short, opens to the public on May 17. While transforming the art scene, the new age, industrial building designed by the architects Neutelings Riedijk, has also redefined the city’s skyline. The museum will house an extensive collection of artwork that includes artifacts from Antwerp’s early years and the important role the city played as a crossroads of the world. It will also be home to one of the largest collections of artwork in Europe—five centuries of works from the middle ages to present day.

If you’re tired of walking around churches to admire the work of Rubens, head for the The Rubens House-Museum (Wapper 9. Tel: 03-201-1555. www.rubenshuis.be). It was in this spot that the artist lived until his death in 1640. The house was left in complete disrepair in the 1930s, and the current structure is a recreation. Still, you’ll love marveling at the Renaissance-Baroque style that demonstrates the artist’s fame, wealth, and power in 17th-century Belgium. Lots of work is being done to revamp the museum in time for a highly anticipated exhibit titled, “Palazzo Rubens: The Master as Architect.” Running from September 10-December 11, the museum will showcase Rubens’ lesser-known skill as an architect.

Antwerp’s hospitality scene is constantly evolving, so there is no shortage of places to fit any traveler’s style. For a boutique hotel located in the heart of the city, try Hotel les Nuits (Lange Gasthuisstraat 12. Tel: 03-227-7441. www.hotellesnuits.be). The 26-room hotel is new on the scene and offers modern and sleek décor especially in each of their spacious, en-suite rooms. Black accents create a moody, yet cozy feeling for the perfect night’s sleep. Many rooms come with clear, walk-in showers, making this a great place to call home with a loved one.

Embracing modernism while not forgetting Antwerp’s past, Sir Plantin Hotel Antwerp (Plantin en Moretuslei 136. Tel: 32-3-271-0700. www.sirplantin-antwerp.com) is a whimsical take on combining the two. This stylish, yet affordable, 176-room hotel is one of the newer members of Grand City Hotels. The mix of old and new is best exemplified in the room style. Fall back on your plush bed of exquisite old-masters style and contrasting, illuminated headboard. If the complimentary drinks from the mini-fridge aren’t enough to satiate your thirst, head down to the trendy Moretus Lounge and Bar where drinks are poured throughout the day and evening.

It’s all about the cleansing effects of an inner-city resort getaway at Maison deLaneau (Karel Rogierstraat 18. Tel: 32-2-216-2785. www.maisondelaneau.com). Easily clear your head with the hotel’s minimalistic, yet exciting design. Vibrant, fashion-centric photographs pop off the white walls and contemporary furniture perfectly heightens the calm. Splurge for a room with a private Japanese garden or a steam room. Accommodations here won’t break your bank account either as they start at $190. A spa session is also a must. Go with the New Life treatment that uses Turkish steam sessions and exfoliating scrubs—you’ll feel new confidence when you walk through the fashionable South (Zuid) district.

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Great article about an amazing city few have yet to discover!
- Deven Chism , Fort Lauderdale, FL USA

Thank you for the beautiful article about Antwerp and your kind words about the work of my NGO Designers against AIDS and our new International HIV/AIDS Awareness education center. You captured the city very well!
- Ninette Murk , Antwerp, Belgium

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