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TAHITI

by Dann Fink


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Rooted in centuries’ old customs, but progressive and changing almost daily in thought, design, and amenities, Tahiti is perhaps the most idyllic vacation spot in the world. Now, the big question: is Tahiti gay? Let’s put it this way—Tahiti is Tahiti. Due to anti-discrimination laws, Tahitians have grown as a society to accept people for who they are. Is there a gay community in Tahiti? Yes, but they’re so assimilated that’s it nearly impossible to find any specifically designated gay bars, hotels, or the like. So in French Polynesia, let go of your old Westernized “gay” identity and consider what may be a new thought…just be yourself

It sounds unbelievable, but waiting in line at JFK for my Air Tahiti Nui (http://www.airtahitinui-usa.com) check-in, everyone was happy. Happy to be waiting in line because we were on our way to paradise halfway around the world in Tahiti. If you’re en route to the islands from somewhere other than New York or Los Angeles, take note of Air Tahiti Nui’s new partnership agreements with both Delta and American Airlines. Recently awarded the Skytrax Best Airline (Pacific Region) and Best Cabin Staff citations, the Air Tahiti Nui crew and cabin attendants make the flight an enjoyable one.

The spectacular, waterside Le Meridien Tahiti (Tamanu. Tel: 689-47-07-07. http://www.lemeridien.com) has initiated the renovation of all rooms and over-water bungalows, installed Wi-Fi (the first wireless hotel on the island), and begun the “greening” of the resort with the goal of making the property as enviro-friendly as possible. Next up is a lavish renovation of all bedding, televisions, and in-room amenities. In keeping with island philosophy, rooms are free of clocks, so be prepared to let go of any thoughts of a “schedule.” New to the resort is the O’Poe Boutique, the exclusive representative of four Tahitian jewelry designers, specializing in black pearls and semi-precious stones.

Executive Chef Sebastien Philizot recreated the resort’s eatery, Le Carre, as a gourmet lounge-restaurant with menu choices ranging from duck carpaccio to island varietal sushis and just-caught mahi-mahi with fresh coconut—every bite delicious and inventive. At sister restaurant La Plantation, each night the menu focuses on a new region, often thematically tied to the hotel’s live entertainment. Local dancers and musicians change nightly, but the highlight for me was the hottest fire-eater in the South Pacific. Hot, hot, hot, in every respect.

New General Manager Dominique Michaud’s definitive achievement is the artist’s loftspace L’Atelier. A spacious penthouse overlooking the lagoon, the loft is dedicated to local artisans and international artists-in-residence as a studio and gallery space, with visiting artists housed in the hotel in return for sharing their time and work. At this salon, guests and locals take workshops, create, and interact. “Our job is to preserve this island artistically and environmentally as much as we can,” Michaud said, “not just for visitors, but more importantly, for the community, and the way to do that is to create a place where people can gather and discuss a common experience of life. Art is that experience. Tahiti, is that experience.”

If a more Westernized hotel is to your taste, the newly renovated and refurbished Sheraton Hotel Tahiti (Papeete. Tel: 689-86-48-48. http://www.starwoodtahiti.com) has nicely appointed, standard lagoon-side rooms, a large man-made, white-sand beach, and comfort food choices (steak and potatoes, stuffed chicken breast, hearty pastas, and fresh seafood) will convince you that you never left home. There’s a friendly staff and an essence of island tradition here—and they do have alarm clocks.

Tahiti’s newest museum, the Robert Wan Musee’ de la Perle (Vaima Center, Tel: 689-45-05-05. http://www.robertwan.com), is devoted to the history of the treasured black pearl. Stop by the sophisticated shop made of black marble to learn the qualities to look for, and to savor Wan’s remarkable designs.

With history in your head, seek out the James Norman Hall Home and Museum (Arue. Tel: 689-50-01-61. http://www.jameesnormalhallhome.pf). Hall, a Tahitian citizen and historic writer of Mutiny on the Bounty, lived a fascinating life, calling both Hollywood and Tahiti his homes. His daughter, Nancy, grew up here, and recently began leading tours of her father’s house and his preserved artifacts.

A mainstay of visiting Tahiti is the block-long, color-strewn Papeete Market (intersection of Rue du 22 Septembre & Rue F Cardella, central Papeete). The open-air bazaar has wares that change almost hourly. Early morning is the time to shop alongside locals for fresh fish and fruits, or go in the afternoon for leisurely souvenir shopping for such things as sarongs and ukuleles.

Nightlife options on Tahiti are few, and only Le Piano Bar (Rue des Ecoles, central Papeete) is geared toward a specifically gay sensibility, but only on weekends, and only late at night. Picture a red-vinyl booth roadside bar along a Montana highway and you’ve got the idea. Around 1A.M. the place starts to fill up with the local gay boys and girls, drag queens, and Raerae (boys raised as females to fill a woman’s role in the household) looking to relax after work and into the very wee-hours. Every night a new, unsuspecting person is pulled from the crowd to participate in a different drag show, and depending on your outlook, you’ll either pray it’s you, or thank heaven it’s not.

Continued

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