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TAHITI
by Dann Fink
Rooted in centuries’ old customs,
but progressive and changing almost daily in thought,
design, and amenities, Tahiti is perhaps the most idyllic
vacation spot in the world. Now, the big question: is
Tahiti gay? Let’s put it this way—Tahiti is
Tahiti. Due to anti-discrimination laws, Tahitians have
grown as a society to accept people for who they are.
Is there a gay community in Tahiti? Yes, but they’re
so assimilated that’s it nearly impossible to find
any specifically designated gay bars, hotels, or the
like. So in French Polynesia, let go of your old Westernized
“gay” identity and consider what may be a
new thought…just be yourself
It sounds unbelievable, but waiting
in line at JFK for my Air Tahiti Nui (http://www.airtahitinui-usa.com)
check-in, everyone was happy. Happy to be waiting in
line because we were on our way to paradise halfway
around the world in Tahiti. If you’re en route
to the islands from somewhere other than New York or
Los Angeles, take note of Air Tahiti Nui’s new
partnership agreements with both Delta and American
Airlines. Recently awarded the Skytrax Best Airline
(Pacific Region) and Best Cabin Staff citations, the
Air Tahiti Nui crew and cabin attendants make the flight
an enjoyable one.
The spectacular, waterside Le Meridien Tahiti
(Tamanu. Tel: 689-47-07-07. http://www.lemeridien.com)
has initiated the renovation of all rooms and over-water
bungalows, installed Wi-Fi (the first wireless hotel
on the island), and begun the “greening” of
the resort with the goal of making the property as enviro-friendly
as possible. Next up is a lavish renovation of all bedding,
televisions, and in-room amenities. In keeping with
island philosophy, rooms are free of clocks, so be prepared
to let go of any thoughts of a “schedule.”
New to the resort is the O’Poe Boutique, the exclusive
representative of four Tahitian jewelry designers, specializing
in black pearls and semi-precious stones.
Executive Chef Sebastien Philizot recreated the resort’s
eatery, Le Carre, as a gourmet lounge-restaurant with
menu choices ranging from duck carpaccio to island varietal
sushis and just-caught mahi-mahi with fresh coconut—every
bite delicious and inventive. At sister restaurant La
Plantation, each night the menu focuses on a new region,
often thematically tied to the hotel’s live entertainment.
Local dancers and musicians change nightly, but the
highlight for me was the hottest fire-eater in the South
Pacific. Hot, hot, hot, in every respect.
New General Manager Dominique Michaud’s definitive
achievement is the artist’s loftspace L’Atelier.
A spacious penthouse overlooking the lagoon, the loft
is dedicated to local artisans and international artists-in-residence
as a studio and gallery space, with visiting artists
housed in the hotel in return for sharing their time
and work. At this salon, guests and locals take workshops,
create, and interact. “Our job is to preserve this
island artistically and environmentally as much as we
can,” Michaud said, “not just for visitors,
but more importantly, for the community, and the way
to do that is to create a place where people can gather
and discuss a common experience of life. Art is that
experience. Tahiti, is that experience.”
If a more Westernized hotel is to your
taste, the newly renovated and refurbished Sheraton
Hotel Tahiti (Papeete. Tel: 689-86-48-48. http://www.starwoodtahiti.com)
has nicely appointed, standard lagoon-side rooms, a
large man-made, white-sand beach, and comfort food choices
(steak and potatoes, stuffed chicken breast, hearty
pastas, and fresh seafood) will convince you that you
never left home. There’s a friendly staff and an
essence of island tradition here—and they do have
alarm clocks.
Tahiti’s newest museum, the Robert
Wan Musee’ de la Perle (Vaima Center, Tel: 689-45-05-05.
http://www.robertwan.com),
is devoted to the history of the treasured black pearl.
Stop by the sophisticated shop made of black marble
to learn the qualities to look for, and to savor Wan’s
remarkable designs.
 With
history in your head, seek out the James Norman Hall
Home and Museum (Arue. Tel: 689-50-01-61. http://www.jameesnormalhallhome.pf).
Hall, a Tahitian citizen and historic writer of Mutiny
on the Bounty, lived a fascinating life, calling both
Hollywood and Tahiti his homes. His daughter, Nancy,
grew up here, and recently began leading tours of her
father’s house and his preserved artifacts.
A mainstay of visiting Tahiti is the block-long, color-strewn
Papeete Market (intersection of Rue du 22 Septembre
& Rue F Cardella, central Papeete). The open-air
bazaar has wares that change almost hourly. Early morning
is the time to shop alongside locals for fresh fish
and fruits, or go in the afternoon for leisurely souvenir
shopping for such things as sarongs and ukuleles.
Nightlife options on Tahiti are few,
and only Le Piano Bar (Rue des Ecoles, central Papeete)
is geared toward a specifically gay sensibility, but
only on weekends, and only late at night. Picture a
red-vinyl booth roadside bar along a Montana highway
and you’ve got the idea. Around 1A.M. the place
starts to fill up with the local gay boys and girls,
drag queens, and Raerae (boys raised as females to fill
a woman’s role in the household) looking to relax
after work and into the very wee-hours. Every night
a new, unsuspecting person is pulled from the crowd
to participate in a different drag show, and depending
on your outlook, you’ll either pray it’s you,
or thank heaven it’s not.
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