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SYDNEY

by Lawrence Ferber

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One of the world’s great gay capitals, sunny and vibrant Sydney continues to evolve in the most glorious manner. While Feb­ruary’s month-long Mardi Gras festival (www.mardigras.org.au) with its colorful climactic parade and all-night party/concert continues to be a must-stop on the international LGBT event calendar, Sydney’s first notable addition isn’t even on the ground—it’s in the air. Virgin’s V Australia (Tel: 800-444-0260. www.vaustralia.com) has entered the long-haul fray with direct flights from LAX. Three cabin classes—economy, premium economy, and business—feature plenty of fresh touches and practical details including lighting effects for each stage of the flight (starry skies during “night” and simulated sunrise for dawn), and an on-demand touch-screen personal entertainment system with days’ worth of uncut movies, TV shows, music, and more. In business class, turndown service is offered—the adjustable sleeper seats measure 6'2" long when fully flat. The cuisine, by Aussie celeb chef Luke Mangan, traverses Mod-Oz and international fare, with two meals and on-demand sandwiches available throughout the flight.

The past five years have ushered in a proliferation of new and renovated hotels, including chic boutique properties. Hidden away in a CBD (Central Business District) alleyway, the 33-room Estab­lishment Hotel (5 Bridge Lane. Tel: 61-2-9240-3110. www.merivale.com) is one of Sydney’s most exclusive, stylish additions, and sister business to a bevy of dress-to-impress hip bars, clubs, and restaurants (including est and sush e). While slickly, yet not overly designed, there are a couple of drawbacks to Establishment’s rooms: a lack of views except of an office building, and some rooms feature an elevated bed area with a step that isn’t very visible in the dark (I seriously banged up a toe on it). On the plus side: a pair of decadent, jumbo chocolate chip cookies arrives with turndown service.

For a room with a view, the five-star, apartment-style Quay Grand Suites Hotel (61 Macquarie Street, East Circular Quay. Tel: 61-2-9256-4000. www.mirvachotels.com) features glass porches overlooking either the Inner Harbour or, for greenery lovers, the Royal Botanic Gardens. At night you can watch the flying foxes (Sydney’s giant fruit bats) zip through the trees and sky.

Located in Kings Cross, once and perhaps still Sydney’s seediest district and a magnet for backpacking party seekers, the 76-room Diamant Hotel (14 Kings Cross Rd., Potts Point. Tel: 61-2-9295-8888. www.diamant.com.au) earns high marks for its EDGE Interiors’ deco, as well as modern amenities including 42” plasma TV, DVD player, and iPod dock.

Unbeatable for its views of the Opera House and Harbour Bridge, the Shangri-La (176 Cumberland St., The Rocks. Tel: 61-2-9250-6000. www.shangri-la.com) unveiled a couple of upgrades and additions in 2009. The Terrace is an indoor/outdoor lounge space for drinks and relaxation and the hotel’s signature Himalayan-themed, atmospheric CHI Spa are standouts. Four exclusive spa treatments involving indigenous Australian ingredients are offered, including a lemon myrtle and eucalyptus polish, and bush honey and macadamia body wrap. Wi-Fi is free throughout the hotel.

Recommendations for Sydney’s best dining spots typically prove consistent, if not brand new. In fact, some of the world’s top-ranked restaurants are located here. Tetsuya’s, Quay (pronounced “key), Sepia, and Bilson’s come up frequently. Degustation menus are popular to say the least, and some venues deal exclusively in set courses. It’s worth noting that many restaurants are closed on Sunday nights.

Smaller, more intimate dining spots seem to be a current trend, some with gay chefs and restaurateurs at the helm. Out, lesbian Chef Christine Manfield’s trendy Universal (Republic 2 Courtyard Palmer Street. Tel: 61-2-9331-0709. www.universal­restau­rant.com) fashions excitingly original fusion dishes: soy braised Barossa chicken with seared liver, chili chicken dumpling and turnip cake, and “Sticky Fingers” of spiced quince, honey mousse, fresh curd, and blackcurrant jam as examples. Ditto for her cocktail menu, which includes creative concoctions like The Celestial (Plymouth gin, kaffir lime, elderflower, lime, apple) and Paradigm (Campari, Port, Pedro Ximenez, cacao). It’s akin to globetrotting with the tongue.

Equally creative, the Star City Casino’s Astral (80 Pyrmont St, Pyrmont. Tel: 800-700-700. www.astralrestaurant.com.au) adds a side order of theater with such visual/palate-dazzling delights as Green Eggs and Ham, and a John Dory smoked tableside in a glass cylinder. A few other venues that amp up the clever, technique-driven factor are Bentley Bar, Marque, and Oscillate Wildly.

Bondi Beach may be appetizing from a sun worshipping and eye candy standpoint, but it’s not exactly a gourmand’s heaven (beachfront seafood venue Iceberg isn’t worth the hullabaloo or price). The exception: Sean’s Panaroma (270 Campbell Parade. Tel: 61-2-9365-4924. www.sean­span­aroma.com.au). Gay Chef Sean Moran doesn’t over-fuss, allowing his sustainable, local ingredients’ flavors like olive oil and lemon-blessed Barramundi fish, sliced duck with currant grapes, and seared scallops in fennel butter, to speak for themselves.

Café culture-wise, French macaroons are currently in vogue, with many spots (including Baroque, Black Star, The Rocks’ La Renaissance, and Beatrice Levanti) serving both traditional and more creative variations of the meringue-y confection (incidentally, Oz’s national dessert is the Pavlova, another meringue-based creation typically topped with fresh fruit and whipped cream). Baker/confectioner Adriano Zumbo’s café and patisserie (308 Darling St and 296 Darling St, respectively. www.adrianozumbo.com) are must-stops for sweets addicts, offering up truly unique and unlikely macaroon creations including Mango Sticky Rice, and, because this is Oz after all, Vegemite (fans insist it’s sublime, the iconic product’s yeasty sourness turned on low volume).

Sydney’s longtime gayborhood of Darlinghurst and its main strip, Oxford Street, has become more mixed of late, although it’s still densely dotted with LGBT bars and cafés (local secret: hidden just off Oxford Street, Pablo’s Vice, Shop 3, 257 Crown Street, is a literal hole in the wall for great coffee and a snack).

A number of venerable, even legendary gay nightspots have shuttered their doors in recent years. Last year saw the closure of the Newtown Hotel, while other casualties include the Beecham Hotel and Aubry Hotel.

All is not doom and gloom, however, openings and upgradings have transpired as well. The Imperial Hotel (www.theimperialhotel. com.au), famously used as a location in the drag queen road trip classic, Priscilla Queen of the Desert, has been completely renovated. Opened in 2008, the Petersham neighborhood’s The Clarence Hotel (corner of Parramatta Rd. and Crystal Street) takes up the better part of a block. In the front is a bar with plenty of seating and two pool tables, and in the back is a disco and stage. Daddies, bears, and their pals have a new space to woof it up in Saddle Bar (85 Oxford St.), and Newtown’s Courthouse Hotel (189 Oxford Street. Tel: 61-2-9360-4831. www.court­househo­tel.com.au) is good for gastro-pub fare available 24/7.

Continued

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Pity, but The Clarence Hotel closed its doors with a farewell party this weekend. Maybe The Imperial will be reborn, but locals not holding our breath. Fine article overall, from Yankee living in OZ!
- Dee Farrell , Sydney

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