What's New in...
PHOENIX/SCOTTSDALE
by Rich Rubin
If there's one thing that distinguishes the dynamo known as Phoenix/Scottsdale, it's that things never remain the same for long. The metropolis at the center of the Valley of the Sun is devoted to tourism, so you'll see a constant updating and renewing in this Arizona hotspot (as summer moves in, you can take the term "hot spot" literally).
While people sometimes think of the area as a place to just sit by the pool, get spa treatments, and eat fabulous food, there's a lot going on in the cultural sector. At the Heard Museum (2301 N. Central Ave., Phoenix. Tel: 602-252-8848. www.heard.org), one of America's leading repositories of Native American art and culture, the regular displays are supplemented by a stunning new sculpture exhibit entitled "Attitudes of Prayer," which runs through mid-2012. Photo fanatics will love "Pure Photography, Post Production, and Mixed Media," which opened in April at the Phoenix Art Museum (1625 N. Central Ave., Phoenix. Tel: 602-257-1222. www.phxart.org) and runs through mid-August. Another don't miss is their Mexican modernism show, running from July through September and presenting some of that country's leading 20th-century art.
Dedicated in April 2010, the Musical Instrument Museum (4725 E. Mayo Blvd., Phoenix. Tel: 480-478-6000. www.themim.org) is an interactive wonder, with headsets and video displays recreating the experience of performers from John Lennon to the Beijing Opera. There's even a room where you can pick up an instrument and create your own music. The museum's Summer Music Series this year hosts a diverse assortment of sounds, from Kronos Quartet's chamber music to West African drumming or Celtic fiddles.
Scottsdale's no slacker when it comes to art. Perhaps the town's major new unveiling isn't in a gallery: it's the Paolo Soleri Bridge, spanning the Arizona Canal around which Scottsdale has built a "waterfront" scene in recent years. This eminent architect (known for his eco-village, Arcosanti, about an hour north, and his famous wind chimes you can buy in town) has long designed bridges, but unbelievably this is the first one to actually be built. The towering structure features two large pylons through which the sun casts its rays, taking advantage of the city's major natural asset, its weather, which you can enjoy from Soleri's plaza adjacent to the bridge.
The best way to experience Scottsdale's thriving art scene is on an Ultimate Art and Culture Tour (Tel: 480-634-6850. www.ultimatearttours.com), which takes you through some of the prime art districts and leading examples of public art and architecture, while giving you some "insider" tips about the area's history and culture.
Long renowned for its dining scene, the Phoenix/Scottsdale area bursts with new opportunities for gourmandizing. Two of Scottsdale's most fun new spots, both of which opened in January, have
a pub feel. Citizen Public House (5th Ave. and Craftsman Court, Scottsdale. Tel: 480-398-4208. www.citizenpublichouse.com), transforms the original Scottsdale Trader Vic's into a gastropub with craft beers and upscale pub grub courtesy of chef Bernie Kantak, famous from his stint at still-popular Cowboy Ciao. Gorgonzola-Emmental mac 'n' cheese, anyone? If you love the thrill of the forbidden, take a trip back to the speakeasy era at Mabel's on Main (7018 E. Main St., Scottsdale. Tel: 480-889-5580. www.mabelsonmain.com), where the cocktails have Prohibition themes and there's even a private dining room reached through a secret door. A fave of baseball fanatics (the valley is a big spring training location), the Pink Pony Steakhouse (3831 N. Scottsdale Rd., Scottsdale. Tel: 480-
945-6697. www.pinkponyrestaurant.com) reopened in February with baseball-themed memorabilia from the original, and retro food that shows why it was a favorite of such greats as Mickey Mantle and Dizzy Dean.
In a departure from his usual cuisine, Chef James Porter of Petite Maison has opened a distinctly non-French eatery:
Big Earl's BBQ (7213 E. 1st Ave., Scottsdale. Tel: 480-947-6800. www.bigearlsbbq.com), where devotees have been flocking since February. If pizza is more your thing, the long-popular Pizzeria Bianco (623 E. Adams St., Phoenix. Tel: 602-258-8300. www.pizzeriabianco.com) is now open for lunch—a perfect stop while exploring Heritage Square, the historic block across the street that includes some of Phoenix's oldest buildings.
One intriguing new dining locale is a temporary one: downtown Phoenix's Cycle (1100 N. Central Ave., Phoenix. Tel: 602-252-2100. www.cyclephoenix.com), which is a unique offering for diners at the Lexington Hotel while it undergoes renovation. Opened in April, the "pop-up" restaurant is scheduled to close down this fall, but while it's going you'll find a wide variety of one-off experiences, including well-known valley chefs bringing in the night's offerings (often on food trucks).
The valley's resorts have always been a prime source of fine dining, and you'll find some new spots here as well. The Mediterranean-styled Intercontinental Montelucia Resort & Spa (4949 E. Lincoln Dr., Scottsdale. Tel: 480-627-3200. www.icmontelucia.com) has opened Roq, a poolside eatery concentrating on local farm produce and distinctive "ROQtails," while the Arizona Biltmore (2400 E. Missouri Ave., Phoenix. Tel: 602-955-6600. www.arizonabiltmore.com) brings you "Inside the Chef's Studio," helping you learn the secrets of celebrity chefs and cookbook authors in classes and private dinners with these lions of culinary excellence. A unique program, "Dining with the Stars," at Boulders Resort (34631 N. Tom Darlington Dr., Scottsdale/Carefree. Tel: 480-488-9009. www.theboulders.com), occurs thrice yearly. This al fresco, wine-paired dinner, held at the spring/fall equinoxes and summer solstice, also features an astrologer, and the $95 fee includes cocktail reception, dinner, and spiritual reading. At the Hyatt Regency Scottsdale Resort and Spa at Gainey Ranch (7500 E. Doubletree Ranch Rd., Scottsdale. Tel: 480-444-1234 or 800-633-7313. www.hyattregencyscottsdale.com), one of my favorite resorts for sheer beauty and gay-friendliness, the food in their new Noh restaurant is so strikingly presented that you can see why they call it a "theater of Japanese cuisine."
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