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PHILADELPHIA

by Rich Rubin

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A slew of changes, including some hot new GLBT nightlife options, fun cultural attractions, and exciting restaurants, provides a fresh outlook on the City of Brotherly Love.

First, let’s check in. The big news in 2010 is a major birthday: the tenth anniversary of the chic and gay-friendly Loews Philadelphia Hotel (1200 Market St. Tel: 215-231-7300. Doubles $169–$329. www.loewshotels.com/philadelphia). Located in the 1932 PFSF Building (one of the world’s first modernist skyscrapers), Loews combines history with modern hipness. Their restaurant has recently become quite a go-to spot, with a wonderful menu that as its name, Sole Food, indicates, concentrates on seafood. Loews is always a good choice, and their package that gives you VIP tickets for “Cleopatra: The Search for the Last Queen of Egypt” at the Franklin Institute (222 N. 20th St. Tel: 215-448-1200. www.fi.edu) is a great deal. In other hotel-related news, the Hyatt at the Bellevue (200 S. Broad St. Tel: 215-892-1234. Doubles $211–$299. www.philadelphia.bellevue.hyatt.com) has added four fab packages. Entitled Amour, Balance, Awaken, and Explore, they include everything from Champagne and chocolate-covered strawberries to tickets to local attractions, and dinner at their wonderful XIX Restaurant. Both hotels are just steps from all the nightlife. If you want to be near lovely Rittenhouse Square, (about a ten-minute walk west of the gayborhood) Hotel Palomar (117 S. 17th St. Tel: 215-563-5006. Doubles $197–$341. www.hotelpalomar-philadelphia.com) opened in late 2009 with a high-design look and green certification. This Kimpton Hotel has a boutique style that combines earthy hues with touches of color and Art Deco details that mirror the building in which it’s housed.

You’ll certainly want to take advantage of the city’s restaurants, and it’s in this area that most of the major new developments are occurring. One of the most important new openings is Garces Trading Company (1111 Locust St. Tel: 215-574-1099. www.garcestradingcompany.com). Located in the heart of the gayborhood, star chef Jose Garces provides a BYOB café with wine boutique, takeout cheese, charcuterie, pastries, and much more. Iron Chef and James Beard Award winner Garces (already a local celebrity for fabulous restaurants Amada, Tinto, Chifa, Distrito, and Village Whiskey) is one of those rare chefs with the golden touch: every establishment he’s opened has been a winner.

GLBT favorite Valanni (1229 Spruce St. Tel: 215-790-9494. www.valanni.com) doubled its size at the end of 2008, and carries on admirably, while former chef R. Evan Turney has moved to the same company’s retro-fun Varga Bar (941 Spruce St. Tel: 215-627-5200. www.vargabar.com). Across the street from Varga Bar, the wonderful Greek Cypriot spot Kanella (1001 Spruce St. Tel: 215-922-1773. www.kanellarestaurant.com) is now offering monthy cooking classes, so you can stop by and learn to prepare everything from rabbit to vegetarian cookery; or enjoy chef Kostantino Pitsillides’ wonderful cuisine without having to lift a finger (except maybe to get the last morsel of your dolmades or fried halloumi). The gayborhood branch of Tria (12th and Spruce Sts. Tel: 215-629-9200. www.triacafe.com), the city’s leading wine bar, is offering a fabulous five-for-five happy hour, with two wines, two beers, and cheese tasting for only $5 each. The knowledgeable and friendly staff can steer you through the offerings at this wine/cheese/beer café, which has another branch near Rittenhouse Square (18th and Sansom Sts. Tel: 215-972-TRIA).

Elsewhere, the legendary Le Bec-Fin (1523 Walnut St. Tel: 215-567-1000. www.lebecfin.com) sports a new, airier look, and the menu shows a similar lightness without losing the fineness that puts it consistently on everyone’s “Best in the US” list. Modern Mexican restaurant Xochitl (408 S. 2nd St. Tel: 215-238-7280. www.xochitlphilly.com) is one of the city’s unheralded culinary treasures, and the new chef concentrates on “small bites” like trios of mini open-faced tacos and ceviches, washed down with such creations as a blood orange/chile margarita. Wonderful S&H Kebab House (611 E. Passyunk Ave. Tel: 267-639-3214. www.kebabhouseonline.com) opened last year and offers a fine Turkish cuisine that’s much more elegant than the name indicates.

Want some help discovering the foodie riches? Gay-owned City Food Tours (Tel: 800-979-3370. www.cityfoodtours.com) can give you a true taste of Philadelphia, whether it’s the “Flavors of Philly” tour, on which you sample such standards as cheesesteaks and soft pretzels, or the “Northern Liberties” tour, their brand-new voyage to this area just north of Center City that many think will become the next gay mecca. One of my favorite tours is the “Decadent Gourmet,” which combines cheeses, teas, and chocolates, including a stop at the Naked Chocolate Cafe (1317 Walnut St. Tel: 215-735-7310. www.nakedchocolatecafe.com), where you’re given a lesson in chocolate-making. There’s an upcoming evening tour that features cocktails, dinner entrées, and a private French pastry tasting.

Other new activities include the revamped Lights of Liberty attraction, unveiled this summer by Historic Philadelphia (Tel: 215-629-4026. www.historicphiladelphia.org), famous for tours of the city’s unique historical points. The centerpiece will be the all-new Liberty 360, a 360-degree, 3-D experience, in which viewers stand on a platform in the center of the room while watching a high-tech, 360-degree floating cylinder screen, fifty feet in diameter, eight feet in height, and consisting of 16 million pixels. Who said history can’t step into the future? Also debuting this summer is the Mural Mile feature of the Mural Arts Program (Tel: 215-537-7676. www.muralarts.org), the largest city-sponsored mural program in the country. With downloadable podcasts, cell-phone tours, and walking tours, visitors will get a new appreciation of the murals (including the GLBT-themed one outside the William Way Community Center).

As the city awaits the openings of the National Jewish Museum and President’s House (both scheduled for the fall) residents revel in the Late Renoir exhibit, on through September at the Philadelphia Museum of Art (26th St. and Benjamin Franklin Parkway. Tel: 215-763-8100. www.philamuseum.org). Art lovers will also want to check out the wonderful Artists’ House Gallery (57 N. 2nd St. Tel: 215-923-8440. www.artistshousegallery.com) in Old City, with a different selection each month of the area’s best upcoming artists. Across the street, the Vivant Art Collection (60 N. 2nd St. Tel: 215-922-6584. www.vivantartcollection.com) specializes in Haitian art, also with selections from throughout the Caribbean and Africa. One classic Philadelphia event not to miss is First Fridays (www.visitphilly.com) when Old City comes alive with extended gallery hours, entertainment, and street artists.

Continued
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