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MONTPELLIER, FRANCE
by Sylvie Bigar
You’ve been to Paris many times,
St. Tropez without Brigitte Bardot is a bore, and Brittany
is, well, rainy. There is, however, a town much favored
by the French though little known to others. Hop on
a connecting flight from Paris or on the TGV and head
south to Montpellier, balmy capital of the Languedoc-Roussillon
region, to discover secret abbeys, hip eateries, and
earthy wines. Nestled between Marseilles and Perpignan,
and a two-hour drive from the Spanish border, the city
lies only six miles from the Mediterranean Sea. It boasts
a gorgeous old town, one of the oldest universities
in Europe (Université Montpellier whose medical
school was founded in the 13th century), and a slew
of new cafés and restaurants. Today, Montpellier
is one of France’s youngest cities with a large
and dynamic GLBT community.
For art lovers visiting Montpellier,
the Musée Fabre (39 Boulevard Bonne-Nouvelle.
Tel: 011-33-04-67-14-83-00. http://www.montpellier-agglo.com)
is an absolute must. After a four-year overhaul, this
now truly modern institution blends both the historic
and contemporary, and features one of France’s
largest art collections outside Paris. The exhibit space
has tripled, and light, both natural and artificial,
has been architecturally molded to enhance each room
and period. In the front courtyard, a minimalist mosaic
of marble stripes created by French conceptual artist
Daniel Buren welcomes visitors. New acquisitions include
20 pieces by contemporary artist Pierre Soulages housed
in its own wing, a huge glass “cube,” as well
as masterpieces by Courbet and Bazille. The growing
permanent collection counts such masters as Rubens,
Poussin, and Matisse among many others.
After filling up your soul, cater to
your palate while still at the museum at Insensé
(39 Boulevard Bonne-Nouvelle. Tel: 011-33-04-67-58-97-78.
http://www.jardindessens.com),
the new, beautifully designed restaurant created by
twin chef brothers Jacques and Laurent Pourcel. Request
a table on the elegant mahogany deck where you can watch
the sunset play hide and seek on the black and white
stripes of the Buren pathway while choosing from an
array of Mediterranean small plates, each seeming more
delicious than the last.
The Pourcel twins’ name has gone
global with eateries in Paris, Tokyo, and Bangkok to
name a few, but they are most famous for their starred
restaurant and boutique hotel in Montpellier, Le Jardin
des Sens (11 avenue Saint-Lazare. Tel: 011-33-04-99-58-38-38.
http://www.jardindessens.com),
an oasis of beauty and calm in a residential part of
town. Their typical Languedocienne cuisine allies land
and sea with strong Spanish and Provençal influences.
For creative, market-inspired fare at
more affordable prices, visit chef/owner Laurent Paufert’s
hip L’artichaut (15 bis rue St. Firmin. Tel: 011-33-04-67-67-91-86)
in the old town close to Saint-Pierre, the towering
fort-like, 16th-century cathedral. The luminous design
of the space matches the artistic offerings on the plates.
Inspired by the proximity of Spain, Paufert mixes traditional
cooking methods such as “a la plancha” with
the best seafood the Mediterranean has to offer. The
small menu changes every week.
On the magnificient Place St. Roch,
the new Kinoa (6 Rue des Soeurs Noires. Tel: 011-33-04-67-15-34-38)
is an elegant, contemporary restaurant all decked in
a symphony of light grey and white, dotted with Philippe
Starck furniture. Wonderful traditional cuisine made
with lightness in mind will delight you as will the
view of the ancient St. Roch Church just in front of
the restaurant. When the weather is warm, bask in the
beauty all around you and enjoy both the cuisine and
people watching from an outside table.
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In Antigone, the modern neighborhood
built by Catalan architect Ricardo Bofill across town,
partners Marianne and Laetizia have opened Le Lérot
(14, Place Nombre d’Or. Tel: 011-33-04-67-64-85-78),
a very reasonable, bright, and inviting self-service
eatery offering fresh salads, assiettes gourmandes,
and creative sandwiches. Try the refined smoked salmon
sandwich and leave some space for the lemon meringue
tart or the chocolate cake.
At night, make sure to visit Le Vieux
Four (59, Rue Aiguillerie. Tel: 011-33-04-67-60-55-95.
http://www.levieuxfour.fr),
where Christophe Reveil and Jean-Michel Viguier have
taken over an old, 19th-century bakery. Within these
ancient walls, Jean-Michel runs the kitchen, preparing
luscious grilled meats while Christophe plays caring
host. They are known for serving some of the best food
in town, and their Thai salad followed by a mouth-watering
L’entrecote de boeuf is the perfect combination.
End in sweetness with a thick slab of apple tarte tatin
served with dulce de leche ice cream.
You can find the hub of gay life in
Montpellier on Place du Marché aux Fleurs where
the Café de la Mer (5, Place Marché aux
Fleurs. Tel: 011-33-04-67-60-79-65) has become a true
GLBT central. It is run by Michel Bonté who,
ten years ago, courageously launched the first openly
gay establishment in the area. Today, the brasserie
has become an institution as well as a symbol for tolerance
and freedom. Order a glass of local Minervois wine and
watch the action. The staff is very friendly and will
gladly give you tips on things to do and see Next
door, Le Heaven (1, Rue Delpech. Tel: 011-33-04-67-60-44-18)
is an attractive new bar that tends to get hot and sweaty
early in the evening.
If you have a car, or know someone who
does, it is also worth driving a few miles outside of
town to check out La Villa Rouge (Route de Palavas.
Tel: 011-33-4-67-06-52-15), one the best gay clubs in
the region. All dolled up in red, the disco caters to
every taste with weekly themed soirées, a discreet
backroom, and for the hungry, a good restaurant, La
Cuisine.
In the summer, there’s no need
to pack your bathing suit if you decide to visit Villeneuve-les-Maguelones-Plage,
one of the most gay-friendly beaches along the Mediterranean
coast. You can borrow a bicycle at the TAM booth in
front of the train station and head to the sea. Once
on the beach, look for the rainbow flag. Close to the
magnificent beach, you’ll find an abbey, dating
from the 12th century, surrounded by classic gardens.
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