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Start your visit by climbing toward the Old Town and, why not, the 157 steps to the top of the St.-Pierre Cathedral (Cours Saint-Pierre 6. Tel: 011-41-022-311-75-75. www.site-archeologique.ch) for a bird’s-eye view of the city. Check out its oldest bell, the 12,000-pound la Clémence. Back down on the Place du Bourg-de-Four, do as the locals do and forget any craving for latte. Café au lait/croissant is the way to go before exploring the (often) pricey antique shops and boutiques on the pedestrian-only Grand Rue. Cheese-lovers, step down to Les Armures Hotel and Restaurant (rue du Puits-St-Pierre 1. Tel: 011-41-022-310-91-72. www.hotel-les-armures.ch), which serves some of the best fondue and raclette. Ask to sit downstairs in the cellar and debut with an assiette valaisanne, a medley of Swiss charcuterie. Later, you can stroll down past the longest bench in the world to admire the view from the romantic promenade, Rampe de la Treille. The Place Neuve, framed by the Conservatory and the Grand Théâtre, opens up to a beautiful park, Les Bastions, favored by a young crowd in search of adventure. At La Théière qui Rit (the laughing teapot) (15 rue de la Cité. Tel: 011-41-022-310-36-47), the baroque décor matches an elegant tea service.

As long as you do not check the terrifying exchange rate between the euro and the dollar, the Rues Basses, between the rue du Rhône and rue du Marché area, is a shopper’s paradise. The top department store, le Bon Génie (34 rue du Marché. Tel: 011-41-022-818-11-11), offers a wonderful selection of designer clothes and accessories. For some of the best Swiss chocolate, step into Chocolats Rohr (3 place du Molard. Tel: 011-41-022-311-63-03. www.rohr.ch) for artisanal marvels. If you want to see where the Davidoff (2 rue de Rive. Tel: 011-41-022-310-90-41. www.davidoff.com) empire started, step into the gorgeous wood-paneled boutique where the most elegant cigars in the world originated. Nearby, the French-style brasserie, Café du Centre (5 place du Molard. Tel: 011-41-022-311-85-86), is famous for its fresh seafood as well as old Swiss favorites. Don’t miss the boutiques within the Confédération-Centre mall clustered around the Swiss branch of Parisian Brasserie Lipp (8 rue de la Confédération. Tel: 011-41-022-318-80-30. www.brasserie-lipp.com), and if you cannot live another moment without sushi, Nô Sushi’s (8 rue de la Confédération. Tel: 011-41-022-810-39-73) conveyor belt makes for a fun and delicious meal.

Geneva may not have a sea, but it’s very proud of its pebble beach, Les Bains des Paquis (quai du Mont- Blanc 30. Tel: 011-41-022-732-29-74. www.bains-des-paquis.ch), located on a pier that reaches out into the middle of the bay. Now that the lake water has been purified, these retro baths, complete with hammam and sauna, are one of the centers of gay Geneva. The Buvette du Bain des Paquis (Tel: 011-41-022-738-16-16), open all day, offers a light menu, but the languid atmosphere and the stunning view from the pier may be its main asset.

Stroll along the Quai du Mont-Blanc and check out the lavish Grand Hotel Kempinski (19 quai du Mont-Blanc. Tel: 011-41-022-908-90-81. www.kempinski-geneva.com), completely renovated and redesigned with transparency as its theme. Make your way to the second floor, at least for a drink, in front of the Jet d’Eau. Afterwards, walk toward the Cornavin Station through Les Paquis, a haven for various ethnic groups and creatures of the night. Leave your luggage at my favorite place to stay, the brand new and beautifully-decorated Eastwest Hotel (6 rue des Paquis. Tel: 011-41-022-708-17-17. www.eastwesthotel.ch), and prepare for a night on the town.

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