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BOGOTA
by Grace Bastidas
At 8,660 feet above sea level, Bogotá
offers many highs beyond simple altitude. The Colombian
capital not only has funky shops, dazzling museums,
and fine restaurants, but it’s also home to Latin
America’s first LGBT Center (Calle 66 No. 9A-2B,
Tel: 57-1-210-0999), a community space that opened its
doors in December of 2006. “This place represents
an important step towards changing the mind of a conservative
Catholic society,” says director Iván Angel
Manrique, who has already welcomed thousands of residents
inside this two-story brick building.
The center is firmly planted in Chipinero, a progressive
neighborhood paved with rainbow flags and bustling with
café-bars that cater to a pre-rumba (party) crowd.
You can kick off the night with a little bar hopping
as early as 5 P.M., when most spots open their doors.
Start out at the city’s oldest gay coffeehouse,
the revered Village Café (Carrera 8 No. 64-29,
Tel: 57-1-346-6592), which is hidden behind a nondescript
pink façade. Inside, the décor is also
plain but the refreshing margaritas and impeccable service
make up for any cosmetic flaws. Don’t forget to
ask the friendly waiters for the inside track on what’s
happening in town that week—they seem to know everything
and everyone. Next, visit the newest (and trendiest)
kid on the block, Palo Santo Café (Carrera
13A No. 79-20, Tel: 57-1-610-7656. http://www.palosantocafe.com),
where you can enjoy a coconut martini on one of the
comfortable couches while listening to a selection of
lounge, ambient, and house music played by an eager
to please DJ. Another worthwhile stop is the Asian-themed
Kiotho (Calle 66 No. 10-75, Tel: 57-1-211-4068), a converted
garage that feels like a cozy den with its low tables,
floor cushions for seats, and candlelit glow. The very
handsome owners even offer complimentary I-Ching readings
for those desperate to know what the night holds.
Once you’ve warmed up, head to Bogotá’s
biggest gay disco, Theatron (Calle 58 No. 10-34,
Tel: 57-1-249-2092. http://www.theatrondepelicula.com),
which can hold up to 5,000 revelers amid a whirl of
flashing lights, drag shows, and go-go boys. Located
in the former home of the Metro Riviera movie theater,
the multi-level space has five different clubs—Lux,
Teatrino, Chillout, Lottus, and Theatron—that cater
to everyone from house-heads to lounge lizards. All
of them are open to women, except for Lottus (Calle
58 No. 10-42, Tel: 57-1-249-2092), a new addition that
draws international DJs like Ministry of Sound’s
Mark Knight.
Of course, on select Sundays the only place to be is
Cha Cha (Carrera 7a, No. 32-26, Tel: 57-1-350-5074.
http://www.elchacha.com)
for their biweekly “Sungay” party that benefits
gay rights organization Colombia Diversa (http://www.colombiadiversa.org).
Housed in the 41st-floor ballroom of what was once the
Hilton Hotel, the nightclub is elegantly dressed in
red and yellow tones with crystal chandeliers. The only
thing that distracts from the scene is the building’s
magnificent city view.
When it comes time for sleep, visitors can rest their
heads in one of the new upscale hotels in Northern Bogotá,
where there are plenty of options for even the most
finicky guest. Grand House (Carrera 18 No. 93-97,
Tel: 57-1-403-4000. http://www.suitesgrandhouse.com)
is a 64-room property that provides refined service
in an intimate setting. Designed by Colombian architect
Luis Restrepo, who is known for his modern, fluid spaces,
the hotel is minimalist yet warm and inviting. Suites
are equipped with Jacuzzis and L’Occitane bath
products, ensuring a great start to any day. The restaurant
on the lower level serves a complimentary breakfast
with exotic fruit juices and fresh-baked bread.
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Another beautifully appointed hotel is
104 Art Suites (Cra. 18A No. 104-77, 57-1-6025959.
http://www.104artsuites.com),
a small property imagined by young Colombian artists craving
an inspirational space where they could observe and interact
with art. The hotel is swathed in black, white, and red,
and filled with contemporary pieces, as well as modern
amenities (wifi, stereo, chimney) in every room.
A quick cab ride away is Centro Andino (Carrera
11 No. 82-71, Tel: 57-1-621-3111. http://www.centroandino.com.co),
a popular meeting spot for serious shoppers. The mall
has familiar stores like Montblanc, Bulgari, and Louis
Vuitton alongside Colombian chains. On the first floor
don’t miss Libreria Nacional (Locale 122, Tel: 57-1-256-5446),
a reader’s paradise, especially since Bogotá
was named UNESCO’s World Book Capital in 2007. On
the second floor, Emerald World Joyeria (Locale 218, Tel:
57-1-616-1554) beckons with sparkling jewelry featuring
Colombia’s most exquisite stone. If you still have
more cash to blow, there are a variety of designer stores
steps away from Centro Andino. Ricardo Pava’s eponymous
shop (Calle 84 No. 13-17, Tel: 57-1-256-6887. http://www.ricardopava.net)
caters to avant-garde men with a taste for monochromatic
fabrics. The Bogotá-born designer, who studied
fashion design and art history in Italy, makes clothes
that are classic yet innovative. He is especially adept
at creating tailored suits and sleek jackets that fit
the contours of a man’s body.
Soak up some culture in the colonial
quarter of La Candelaria, considered the heart and soul
of Bogotá. Tiled rooftops, ornate balconies,
and cobblestone streets lead the way to small galleries
and world-class museums. The crown jewel is the Gold
Museum (Calle 16 No. 5-41, Tel: 57-1-284-7450), which
has the world’s biggest collection of pre-Colombian
artifacts. Founded in 1939 to preserve Colombia’s
archaeological heritage, the institution is currently
under renovation and will reopen in a new building later
in 2008. Till then, you can see two floors that were
renewed a few years ago with displays of dazzling gold,
pottery, wood, stone, and textile objects.
A short walk away is the Donación Botero (Calle
11 No. 4-41, Tel: 57-1-343-1340), located in a beautifully
restored mansion that showcases the work of Latin America’s
most famous artist, Fernando Botero. The Colombian painter
and sculptor, known for his corpulent figures, donated
his own works to the museum as well as pieces by Matisse,
Picasso, Dalí, and other greats from his private
collection.
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