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Vancouver’s location as a gateway to the Pacific Rim has helped the city become the busiest seaport in Canada, exporting more cargo than any other port in North America. It’s the combination of mountains, ocean, forest, and parklands surrounding the city that makes it not only “livable” for residents, but also a major tourist destination. Every tourist brochure brags that Vancouver is one of the few cities where you can river raft in the morning, snow ski in the afternoon, and still make it back to the clubs at night (who are these overachievers?), but it is actually true.

Vancouver also has the largest gay population in Western Canada, and since British Columbia legalized gay marriage in 2003, the area has not surprisingly seen an upswing in gay visitors and residents. More so than other cities I’ve visited, Vancouver is a city of neighborhoods each with its own distinct character and ethnic mix. People of British origin were historically the largest ethnic group in the city, but today the Chinese are the largest visible ethnic group, and the city has the second largest Chinatown in North America after San Francisco. Gays and lesbians are well integrated throughout the entire city, but the gay community is centered primarily around the West End neighborhood along Davie Street (Davie Village). This center of gay life, heralded by a café-lined lane dotted with rainbow flags and pink trashcans, is also the most popular and populated area of the city. The eclectic neighborhood of beautiful tree-lined streets has a few remaining Edwardian-style houses left among apartment buildings and skyscrapers. In just a few minutes you can walk from Davie down to False Creek to take in the beaches, the snow-capped mountains, and the many fitness enthusiasts walking, running, and skating along the paved seawall that surrounds the city.

To acquaint myself with Vancouver’s gay nightlife, I did a mad dash through Davie Village’s club scene on a Sunday night with Angus Praught, president of gayvan.com and host extraordinaire. I may as well have been with the mayor, as everyone in the village knows this man. I also met a slew of drag queens and definitely a couple more martinis than I should have. Here’s what I discovered: Celebrities is the biggest gay dance club and a local favorite, with a pretty mixed crowd (gayer on Fri/Sat) and some fun shows. A few straight people I met said it was their favorite club in the city as well. Odyssey is a smaller, younger gay and mixed club, also with fun shows and specialty nights. Numbers has several different levels and rooms where billiards, darts, karaoke, and a dance floor can all co-exist. 1181 is a new club, very upscale and stylish, with themed nights and big screen events. Great place to meet for pre-dinner cocktails. The Oasis is a comfortable, warmly-lit upstairs piano lounge with live jazz, a DJ, an outdoor patio, and an upscale appetizer menu with jugs of sangria. The recently opened Majestic is a restaurant and cabaret positioned to be the next hot spot in the village with its central location, appetizing menu, and huge patio right on Davie St. PumpJack is the place to go for jam-packed Sunday Keggers, as well as Levi/leather/fetish nights.

It’s very easy to walk club to club and find your favorite, as this friendly village has something for every taste. When you get hungry, check out Delilah’s for award-winning food and the best martinis in the city; Characters Taverna for Greek, Indian, and Italian food on a large patio overlooking the Village; AllIndia for affordable East Indian lunch and dinner buffets; and Hamburger Mary’s which has been a GLBT favorite since 1979.

Pick up the Gay Friendly Vancouver guide found throughout the city, or visit gayvan.com for updated listings. If you visit Vancouver for the gay scene, consider August for Vancouver Gay Pride and the Queer Film Festival; February for Gay Mardi Gras, as well as Winter Pride in nearby Whistler (see sidebar).

When choosing your accommodations, the Opus Hotel is an acclaimed high-end boutique hotel, centrally located within a short walk to Davie Village. The rooms are modern, warm, and comfortable, with huge tubs, separate showers, L’Occitane bath products, and surprising amenities at every turn. Mini bar items include an “intimacy kit” and a $10 can of oxygen, which I of course had to buy and suck down just because it was weird (I did feel a head rush but it may have just been hyper-ventilation). Room service delivered the best fries I’ve ever had, and the lobby serves delicious globally inspired tapas like pork spare ribs, yam chips, and crispy fried olives, as well as trendy drinks (try the Opus 97, the blood orange and passion fruit house martini). At night the lobby transforms into “Vancouver’s Most Popular Nightspot” according to Zagat, with local DJs spinning at the Opus Bar. It’s the place I’ll choose to stay when I return.

Meanwhile, the Pacific Palisades is a beachy, high-rise hotel in the trendy Robson shopping area, with an indoor pool, aromatherapy in the lobby, and a chalkboard that welcomes your dog to the hotel by name (nice touch!). The hotel is also home to the innovative Zin Restaurant and Lounge, featuring world cuisine, super-size booths, and an impressive selection of Zintinis.

On the higher end, there is the Pan Pacific Vancouver attached to the convention center, featuring luxury suites and spectacular views of the North Shore mountains. On the lower end ($90–$120/night), check out the landmark Sylvia Hotel located right on the English Bay with beachside lounge and dining.