MEDITERRANEAN
ODYSSEY
by Stuart Haggas
One line that made
me chuckle in Armistead Maupin’s latest novel Michael
Tolliver Lives was a quip about RSVP cruises, sailing
to “someplace warm but homophobic.” Its inclusion
alongside topical pop culture references like Viagra,
Queer as Folk, and American Idol demonstrates how the
RSVP brand has become part of gay parlance. For me Maupin’s
quip had even more relevance, because I was reading it
while on an RSVP cruise.
A more appropriate read might have been The Odyssey, Homer’s
epic Greek poem that relates the voyage of Odysseus and
his men as they sail home after the Trojan War, because
in the spirit of Greek mythology, my ten- night RSVP cruise
had been dubbed the Mediterranean Odyssey. Departing from
Civitavecchia near Rome, destinations on this gay voyage
onboard Holland America Line’s luxurious Westerdam
included the legendary ports of Venice and Naples, the
historic islands of Sicily, Malta, and Corfu, and the
breathtaking medieval walled city of Dubrovnik. Keeping
the theme alive onboard ship was an array of costume parties,
giving passengers an excuse to dress up in togas, as raunchy
leather-clad gladiators, heroic Roman centurions, and
gorgeous gods and goddesses.
During his mythical voyage, Odysseus encountered fantastical
dangers like the Cyclops, a gruesome one-eyed giant, and
the sirens, sea deities whose enchanting songs lured men
to their deaths. Although there were no one-eyed monsters
terrorizing the passengers of the Westerdam, we had our
own onboard siren, record-breaking recording artist Kristine
W, to lure us to the dancefloor.
Our first port of call was the chaotic
Italian city of Naples, gateway to the celebrated ruins
of Pompeii and Herculaneum (Tel: +39-081-857-5347. http://www.pompeiisites.org).
When Mount Vesuvius erupted in AD79, molten lava petrified
both cities, preserving precious treasures and spectacular
mosaics as well as mundane domestic items like cooking
pots and graffiti. This ancient snapshot of Roman life
remained under volcanic ash until its discovery in the
18th century, making these the most enlightening Roman
ruins in Italy. For a thoroughly eye-opening overview,
you should also visit Museo Archeologico Nazionale (Piazza
Museo, Napoli, Tel: +39-081-440-166. http://www.marketplace.it/museo.nazionale).
Here adult-orientated artifacts, including phallic fertility
statues and frescoes portraying threesomes and promoting
brothels, can be viewed in the museum’s “Secret
Cabinet.” This room is so named because 18th and
19th-century archaeologists were so scandalized by these
salacious finds, they chose to lock them away, open on
request only to those considered morally respectable.
Evidently the region was more sexually liberated in AD79
than in the 1800s.
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When budgeting for a cruise vacation,
it’s worth noting that although meals, soft drinks,
entertainment, and parties are included, items like
alcoholic beverages and excursions are extra. Shore
excursions to Pompeii ranged from $74 to $131, so costs
can accumulate on a ten-day trip. Budget-minded travelers
need not despair: with advance research you’ll
find it’s quite easy and inexpensive to take a
Circumvesuviana train from Naples towards Sorrento,
disembarking at Pompei Scavi-Villa dei Misteri station.
Entry to Pompeii is $15. Afterwards, splurge your savings
on Capodimonte porcelain cameos from the old craftsmen’s
shops of Quartieri Spagnoli, join hip Italian youths
cruising Via Toledo for funky street style, or sample
a simple, authentic Neapolitan pizza.
We next docked at Messina on the island of Sicily. For
those who visualize Italy as being shaped like a boot,
then Sicily is what that boot is kicking; an apt metaphor,
for that’s how Sicilians often feel they’re
treated by the politicians of Rome. Although mainland
Italy is just 3km away, Sicily feels unique: the pace
is slower, the food spicier, and summer temperatures
soar thanks to dry winds blowing in from North Africa.
Founded by the Greeks in 8th century BC, a whole array
of conquering forces came and went, and Sicilians today
proudly divulge that there’s a mix of Italian,
Greek, Arabic, French, and Spanish blood in their veins.
Blood has much significance here, because Sicily is
famous for its Mafia associations: family links that
cross all the way to the United States. Unsurprisingly,
Holland America’s most popular excursions also
had Mafia connections: visiting remote mountain villages,
dramatic churches, and locations used in The Godfather
movies.
I chose to follow my own destiny and headed for the
railway station on Piazza d’Republica to board
a train bound for Taormina, one of Italy’s most
celebrated and dramatically situated resorts. Independent
adventures aren’t without drawbacks: for although
my ticket cost just a few Euros, progress was hampered
by an aging Italian train that had no intention of keeping
to its schedule. As we waited, languidly handsome Latin
men leaned out of open train windows, smoking, keeping
cool, and looking like extras from a Martin Scorsese
movie. Eventually, the train gave a rusty sigh and we
shuddered toward Taormina.
Continued
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On
the Road, A Mini Gay Film Fest