EUROPE’S CULTURAL CAPITAL 2008
LIVERPOOL: LIFE AS ART
by Rich Rubin
Legendary in the music world, insouciant
in spirit, and surprisingly attractive, Liverpool is
probably the most famous city in Britain that American
tourists never visit. It’s time to change that,
as 2008 ushers in the city’s stint as European
Capital of Culture—the first time in eighteen years
a British city has achieved this honor. Interestingly,
the last one was Glasgow, which in many ways has a similar
story to Liverpool in its progress from shipping mecca
to down-in-the-dumps to cultural revival. Having celebrated
its 800th birthday last year, Liverpool is certainly
no newbie, but the renaissance leading up to and driven
by the cultural capital year is nothing short of astounding,
making the city seem like a new, or at least newly-transformed,
destination.
Walk down towards the Mersey River and
you’ll see, among the new construction, the quintessential
Liverpool sight: the Three Graces, a trio of early 20th-century
buildings that stand as a testament to the city’s
maritime greatness. As you look at the graceful Royal
Liver, Cunard, and Port of Liverpool buildings that
create an instantly-recognizable waterfront skyline,
think of what used to be here: great cruise liners plied
the Liverpool waters regularly, and in fact, Liverpool’s
downturn began with the decline of shipping. What goes
around comes around, though, and as cruises are once
again popular, Liverpool’s new cruise facilities—inaugurated
by none other than the QE2—are due to receive ships
almost weekly.
Stroll over to Albert Dock and you can
see revival in action. Just ten years ago this area
was all but abandoned, without even any water around
the pier. It’s now the site of three major museums
and some of the city’s most popular bars, restaurants,
and cafés. Add to this the 42-acre Liverpool
One project that is going up in the city center. As
Europe’s largest regeneration project, it is filled
with architect-designed residential, shopping, and dining
facilities; a new arena, inaugurated in January with
the music/sound/light extravaganza Liverpool: The Musical;
new hotels like the Malmaison and the Beatles-themed
Hard Day’s Night Hotel; and a slew of chic eateries.
You can see why Kris Donaldson of the 2008 cultural
festival proclaims: “It’s the greatest renaissance
of any twenty-first-century city.”
First time visitors to Liverpool will
be happy to discover that the city is small enough to
explore on foot. The Cavern Quarter is the heart of
Beatles territory, and most of the gay bars are nearby
(more on this later). Walk ten minutes south and you’re
riverside, or ten minutes north to the Cultural Quarter,
with the World Museum, Walker Art Gallery, and stunningly-refurbished
St. George’s Hall. Twenty minutes east lies the
Georgian Quarter, with two stunning cathedrals, most
of the fine dining, and some of Liverpool’s prettiest
architecture. It’s here I start my explorations.
Though the city was heavily bombed in World War II,
the Georgian Quarter’s stately buildings survived
largely intact. I love walking down these rows of simple,
classic facades, often with pillars flanking the doors,
bay windows, stone pediments, wrought iron balconies,
and elaborate, multi-stemmed chimneys.
Hope Street, one of the main thoroughfares
in this area, runs from cathedral to cathedral, and
even if you aren’t a big church fan, these two
are worth exploring. I start at the strikingly modern
Metropolitan Cathedral at the north end of the street.
From the outside, this Catholic cathedral is an unmissable
landmark with its round shape and reedy spires surrounding
a mushroom-like center. Inside, it’s a Modernist
wonder: open and airy, rimmed by jagged strips of blue
and green stained glass. The starkness focuses attention
on the altar, bathed in ever-changing light as the sun
moves across the stained glass dome. Liverpool Cathedral,
the neo-gothic Anglican wonder at the south end of Hope
Street, is the largest Anglican cathedral in Europe,
all stone arches and vast space. Unlike the striking
modernism of the Catholic cathedral, this one harks
back to the past for its look, and it’s equally
impressive in a very different way.
The Georgian Quarter also holds most
of Liverpool’s fine dining scene. At my favorite,
The London Carriage Works, I savor absolutely perfect
smoked haddock risotto, flavorful chicken with a triangular
gateau layered with potatoes and vegetables, and creamy
blackcurrant tart with licorice ice cream. Chef Paul
Askew’s food is fabulous, the service couldn’t
be better, the atmosphere casual yet refined. It’s
at the corner of Hope Street and Hope Place—how
could it not be great? I also love gay-owned Puschka,
located just a few blocks away. It’s a lovely and
laid-back little spot where the grilled goat cheese
with pesto and pine nuts is to die for, and my evening’s
special, duck confit marinated and slow-cooked, is so
tender I don’t even pick up my knife. Also make
sure to check out 60 Hope Street, where pre-theater
diners can enjoy delectable dishes like pan-roasted
pheasant breast or monkfish with thyme-flavored gnocchi.
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Speaking of theater, the Everyman Bistro
in the basement of its eponymous playhouse, is a winner.
At the counter, check that hour’s offerings (they
change throughout the day), from an array of salads to
quiches, pizzas, wild mushrooms with goat cheese, or Moroccan-spiced
lamb. The freshly-prepared food, often using local and/or
organic ingredients, is much better than the cafeteria-type
experience indicates, and the crowd is a diverse mix of
race, gender, and sexual orientation.
Further down, on Duke Street, you’ll
find the fab “gastro-pub” Munro, offering
typical pub grub like fish and chips alongside more
creative dishes such as monkfish tail on pan-roasted
fennel, accompanied by a great selection of organic
wines.
Between the Georgian buildings and the
funky shops of Bold Street you’ll discover some
of the best cafés in Liverpool. Try The Egg Café,
a funky vegetarian café/gallery perfect for a
light meal or coffee and mouth-watering dessert, or
the new Leaf Tea Shop and Coffee Bar, a sweet little
place with an enviable selection of teas (Gold Oolong,
Moroccan mint, flowering jasmine), coffee drinks, and
organic baked goods such as apple scones and chocolate/banana
cake. Right on Bold Street, visit Café Tabac,
a longtime favorite with the artsy crowd. Just off Bold
Street, there’s a nice little coffeehouse in FACT,
the indispensable cinema/performing arts center.
When it comes to accommodations, you
can’t do better than Hope Street Hotel. Located
in the heart of the Georgian District, it features high-design
rustic chic: one room has skylights in its slanting
ceiling, another has exposed brick and a square bathtub,
another has two levels and stunning sunset views over
city and river.
Across town, 62 Castle Street is another
boutique hotel with a friendly staff and boldly-hued
designer rooms. Meanwhile the Malmaison, the first new
hotel construction in Liverpool in years, has the casual
hipness, comfy rooms, and amiable spirit of this well-known
chain. Want something utterly Liverpool? The upscale,
new, Hard Day’s Night Hotel (at press time scheduled
for a February opening) is your spot. Each large, modern
room boasts individual works of art featuring The Beatles.
Stairwells lined with photos and memorabilia trace the
group’s history from most recent (top floor) to
oldest on the ground floor. Bar Four and Blakes Restaurant
are set to be huge draws, and the downstairs reception
room will host same-sex civil ceremonies.
Continued
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