BRAZIL'S RISING STAR
FLORIANOPOLIS
Written and photographed by Mark Chesnut
You may not have heard much about it yet,
but the city of Florianopolis is slowly but surely building
a reputation as the next jet-set hot spot; something like
a combination of St. Tropez, Punta del Este, and the Hamptons—but
with lower prices. It’s also increasingly on the
radar for gay and lesbian travelers looking for sun, sand,
and sophistication without the big-city hassles of places
like Rio de Janeiro.
The city of Florianopolis, called Floripa
by most Brazilians, is the capital of the state of Santa
Catarina, set on a 202-square-mile island just off the
coast of southern Brazil. Floripa, however, feels more
like a collection of towns, thanks to its 42 beaches,
natural beauty, and outdoor activities.
For all the glitzy development I’ve
heard about, I begin my visit (accompanied by an array
of International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association
members who are equally curious about the destination)
in the quiet southern part of the island, where nearly
half of the terrain is covered with Atlantic rainforest.
We hike a secluded path to reach Naufragados Beach,
an uncrowded sunny spot where we enjoy the sand and
the view of a far-off lighthouse before boarding a small
boat to a nearby oyster farm. Oyster farming and fishing
continue to be an important source of revenue for locals.
This homegrown industry dates back to 1673, when the
first Azorean and Portuguese settlers dropped anchor
here. Early settlers also left their mark in the charming
architecture, which is especially visible in small Azorean
settlements like Ribeirão. These small communities
are great places to try the local seafood, as I find
out during a tasty lunch at Porto de Contrato,
a waterfront restaurant with a beautiful view.
It wasn’t until the late 20th century
that Floripa’s growth spurt started, and today’s
population of some 800,000 is nearly triple what it
was back in 1970. The city has among the highest literacy
rates in all of Brazil, and is a center for education
(two major universities are based here) as well as a
nascent-but-growing software industry. So while the
iconic Hercilio Luz Bridge (which was the longest suspension
bridge in Brazil when it opened in 1926) has been closed
for nearly two decades (commuters now use other bridges
to travel between mainland Brazil and the island), the
city is firmly focused on its future as a technology
and tourism hub.
The anticipated business boom here isn’t
quite in full swing, but tourism seems to be, thanks
in large part to the city’s vast natural beauty.
Every beach in Floripa seems to have its own personality,
and each attracts its own type of travelers. Our next
stop is Campeche Beach, where the stronger waves
make for good surfing. Just a couple blocks away, we
tour a lovely small hotel called Pousada Natur Campeche
(pousada is the Portuguese word used for small inn),
peeking into its colorful guest rooms, each named for
a different country (and decorated accordingly).
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Pousadas, in fact, offer some of the most charming and
interesting accommodations in Florianopolis. International
brand-name hotels only recently arrived here (Sofitel
was the first, in 2006), and most are located downtown,
far from the beaches, making smaller hotels in the beachfront
communities a good choice; other noteworthy gay-friendly
small properties include Pousada dos Chás
(literally, Inn of the Teas), which, as might be surmised,
offers an afternoon tea service; and Ilha do Papagayo,
which has bungalows on its own private island, just off
of Praia do Sonho Beach.
THE HEART OF IT ALL
The next morning, I awake early for an excursion
to the historic city center. We head to Praça
15 de Novembro, a lush town square centered around
a giant ficus tree. Following a tradition that supposedly
brings good luck, everyone in our group holds hands
and circles the tree three times (and since two other
groups are doing the same thing, no one even notices
that we’re mostly men). I check out the crafts
market that sets up daily just off the square, and admire
the variety of historic 18th- and 19th-century architecture
in the neighborhood, including the ornate Palácio
Cruz e Sousa Museum, a former government palace
that now houses a history museum, the historic former
Customs House and the Public Market, which
is a good place to pick up souvenirs. For live musical
performances, the Floripa Music Hall is a recommended
spot.
That afternoon, we venture into Floripa’s
gay side. I step onto the sand at Praia Mole,
a popular beach with a large gay section that heats
up every summer (which, remember, is during North America’s
winter). We take seats outside at Bar do Deca,
a relaxed, open-air bar that serves thirsty gay sun
worshippers. It’s a great place to sip a caipirinha
(Brazil’s de facto national cocktail) and people
watch.
Sitting at the next table is a group
of handsome men in bikinis. After we start chatting,
one of the guys, whose name is Renato Agostinh, tells
us that he is a former Mr. Gay Florianopolis and came
in fifth in the Mr. Gay Brazil contest in 2007. “I’m
very proud of my city,” he says, smiling. “It’s
a very good place to be gay.”
The gay tour continues that night, when
we head to a reception at Jivago Lounge, a trendy
bar with a tiny dance floor. It’s not an exclusively
gay place, but as the evening goes on, it’s easy
to see that this venue attracts a variety of stylish
young people of every sexual orientation. Those looking
for a larger-scale gay ambiance head to the Concorde
Club, which has two dance floors and plenty of laser-light-infused
excitement, and Mix Café Club, which hosts
a lively array of drag shows and DJs.
Continued
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