DISCOVERING
CARTAGENA
by Mark Chesnut
It’s a breezy, warm Friday evening
in the historic city center of Cartagena de Indias, and
horse-drawn carriages clip-clop down the narrow streets,
past pristinely restored Colonial-era buildings. I stop
at a small square to admire the energetic talent of a
troupe of street performers, who dance, sing, and play
music in a small park, as groups of strolling foreigners
and locals applaud. Two blocks away, at Plaza Santo Domingo,
diners are gathered around outdoor tables at candlelit
restaurants, savoring an array of cuisine. I proceed a
couple blocks further, to the lushly landscaped Plaza
de Bolívar, where young heterosexual couples are
holding hands. Then it’s on to L’Petit, a small
gay bar in an historic, dramatically lit building, where
male couples are kissing over cocktails, and everyone
seems to be smiling. It’s just an average evening
in this postcard-perfect city by the sea, and the good
moods and emotions are as palpable as the humid Caribbean
breezes.
Far and away the most popular tourism
destination in Colombia, the city of Cartagena de Indias
(often called simply Cartagena) is an historic gem (complete
with UNESCO World Heritage Site status) that exudes
an increasingly hip, modern take on the travel experience,
thanks to a growing list of stylish hotel options set
in historic landmark buildings. Add to that the expanding
gay nightlife scene (not to mention the city’s
first gay hotel) and you’ve got a potent recipe
that’s putting this city on the itineraries of
more LGBT travelers.
Strolling the Streets
The key to Cartagena’s allure as a vacation
destination is its historic city center. The best way
to begin a visit in this neighborhood is with a walking
tour—either guided or on your own. The streets
here are lined with precious colonial architecture from
the 17th to the 19th centuries, representing styles
ranging from Victorian and Belle Epoque to Greek Revival.
An appropriate place to begin the tour is at the Torre
del Reloj (Clock Tower), built at the beginning
of the 18th century as the main entrance to the walled
city. From there, you may stroll along the square called
Plaza de la Aduana, which was once home to the
royal offices of the Kingdom of Spain.
Noteworthy museums include the Museu
de Oro (Gold Museum), which exhibits the gold artistry
of the Zenu culture dating to the second century BC,
and the Museo de Arte Moderno de Cartagena (Cartagena
Modern Art Museum), which features work from Colombian
and foreign artists.
Additional must-see historic sites include
the Church of San Pedro Claver, named for the
first saint to be canonized in the New World, who dedicated
his life to helping recently arrived African slaves.
One of the most fascinating attractions
sits next to Plaza de Bolivar, the lush town
square decorated with a statue of Latin American freedom
fighter Simon Bolivar. One side of the square is flanked
by a deceptively lovely building that dates to 1770.
This beautiful façade was once the gateway to
terrifying events—namely, when it served as the
regional base for the Inquisition, a Catholic institution
that used torture to ferret out accused heretics. Today
it’s a museum; a fascinating place that exhibits
actual torture devices used in Spain and Latin America
during the Inquisition’s 200+ years of activity.
Upper floors of the building are dedicated to Cartagena’s
history, from the conquest to colonial days, through
the slave trade and into more recent times.
Happily, most of Cartagena invokes far
more peaceful and even artistic sentiments. The city
has a rich tradition of creativity, from the impromptu
live dance and music performances on public squares
to the silent, mime-like performers who stand on some
street corners. It’s also home to larger-scale
live entertainment, especially during the annual Cartagena
International Music Festival, which in January brings
a variety of mostly classical musicians from around
the world for a week’s worth of public and private
concerts in a variety of venues. One of the most impressive
of the venues is Teatro Heredia, opened in 1911
to commemorate the first 100 years of the independence
of Cartagena. Even if you’re not here for the music
festival, you might still be able to catch a live performance
at this wonderful theater, which is graced with Italian
marble statues and balconies of Portuguese wood.
Cartagena’s appeal isn’t limited
solely to historic sites and old architecture. Its beachfront
neighborhoods are lined with shimmering high-rise condo
towers and hotels. One of the most popular such areas
is Bocagrande, home to the city’s gay beach,
glamorously named Hollywood (it’s in front
of the Hotel Caribe, which was the first luxury hotel
on the beach when it opened in 1941). The waters here
are not Caribbean clear (even though this is the Caribbean),
but it’s still a convenient option for sunbathing
and taking a dip.
Attractive Inns
One of the wonderful things
about Cartagena is the variety of interesting and stylish,
small hotels set within landmark buildings in the historic
center. During my most recent visit, I stayed at the
Charleston Santa Teresa, a former convent built
in the 17th century that has been luxuriously transformed
into one of the city’s grande dame hotels (and
also one of the most expensive). Beautifully detailed,
the property features conservative décor, including
an altar-like reception desk, peaceful lobby courtyard,
and a rooftop pool and restaurant with excellent views
of the city.
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SLIDESHOW OF CARTAGENA
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Another of the large luxury hotels is the
Sofitel Santa Clara, set in a former monastery
built in 1621. Set around an elegant, pillared courtyard,
the property has a lovely spa and two restaurants—one
of which specializes in French cuisine, in keeping with
Sofitel’s French roots. Guestrooms are crisply decorated
and feature modern amenities including flat-screen televisions
and Wi-Fi access.
New on the scene is Hotel L’Petit,
which was opened in 2009 by Fernando Palacios, the man
who also owns Studio 54, one of the city’s most
popular gay bars. Primarily targeting gay travelers,
it is nevertheless straight-friendly (“We just
had a straight couple from Venezuela stay with us for
a week, and they had a wonderful time,” the receptionist
tells me during my visit). Rooms have basic but attractive
décor and are clean, newly furnished, and have
flat-screen plasma TVs, free wireless Internet access,
and private baths. An added plus is that guests get
a complimentary welcome cocktail at Bar L’Petit,
the gay bar on the first floor of the hotel.
Other new choices include Anandá,
a sumptuous den of luxury that opened in 2009 as a member
of the Preferred Boutique consortium. It’s a style-conscious
getaway in the heart of the historic center, set in
a 28,000-square-foot former colonial home that’s
been updated with amenities including swimming pool,
Jacuzzi, sun deck, and spa services.
A more affordably priced alternative
is Delirio, still stylish and pleasant, with
bright colors and design accents that include large
photo murals. The roof deck here is a great place to
relax as well.
For a definitively fashionable stay,
consider the Tcherassi Hotel + Spa, opened in
2009 by Colombian fashion designer Silvia Tcherassi.
Its ultra-cool style is evident in everything from the
open-air restaurant, which sits next to a slim plunge
pool in the courtyard, to the large guestrooms that
feature comforters embellished with the designer’s
name.
Also worth a visit is the Hotel Cartagena
de Indias, which opened in 2009 as a member of Small
Luxury Hotels of the World. This property has contemporary
style and an excellent rooftop deck with a small swimming
pool.
Meanwhile, at Casa Pestagua,
an 11-room hotel, you just might feel like you’re
vacationing in an elegant private residence, thanks
to the owners’ dedication to preserving the original
style of this property. Rooms are large and comfy with
antique furnishings, and the large courtyard is a tranquil
step back in time, albeit with the modern luxury of
s swimming pool.
Continued
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