Email/Share
Digg

Single Page
Larger Font
Smaller Font

In the glamorous and charming French mountain town Megève (think Aspen in the French Alps) there are several culinary gems. One is in the cozy, yet tres chic restaurant, Le Traditonnel, located in the Alpine lodge and spa, Les Fermes de Marie. Set in a beautiful wood chalet, the eatery is uniquely decorated with an oasis of wood furnishings and dark red flooring in a most luxurious setting. Try the sweet chestnut soup with truffle and the risotto with mushrooms, which will leave you breathless. Just save room for the dessert buffet. The menu is constantly changing because chef Christophe Côte uses whatever products he can find from the day’s market. Chemin de Riante Colline, Megève. Tel: 011-33-450-930-310. www.c-h-m.com

The modern restaurant Le Puck in the center of Megève is a showstopper. The elegant eatery bathed in gray and orange colors with bare wood floors and assorted sculptures is owned by Michelin star restaurateur and celebrated chef Emmanuel Renault (he also owns Flocons de Sel). Dishes are served on locally quarried slate tile plates. Or try the aesthetically pleasing and delicious popsicle of reblochon cheese presented fried on a stick. Order La Boîte de Sebastien, a tasting masterpiece consisting of small glasses served in an egg carton holding little nibbles of salmon, lobster bisque, and corn mousse. For dessert, the apple strudel with homemade ice cream is a dream. Renault says don’t leave without trying the reblochon spring rolls and glass of white chocolate with bergamot orange. As he notes, “Come once and you will come back again!” 31 rue Obersdorf, Megève. Tel: 011-33-450-210-661.

At the base of the mountain, just beside the Rochebrune ski lift, is the absolutely homey and whimsical bistro Le Matou (think mismatched chairs and tables). You’ll find a mix of tourists, ski patrol, ski instructors, and the locals mingling on their grand terrace reading menus written in beautiful script on old sheet music. Their homemade cuisine is delicious and satisfying, and they’ve elevated the croque monsieur served with a salad and crispy fries to an art form. Or try the terrine, or beef tartare with basil and olive oil. The shoulder of lamb with winter fruits is also outstanding. With all that skiing and snowshoeing, let yourself indulge in home made desserts: chocolate cake, clafoutis (here, a custard with raspberry and lychees), or a Grand Marnier soufflé. Aprés ski they serve mulled wine and flavored crêpes. 192 route du Téléphérique, Megève. Tel: 011-33-450-589-777.

The warm and inviting ski resort town of Alpe D’Huez is an unknown treasure to most Americans. There’s an abundance of trails (152 miles of them and 84 ski lifts), but it’s not overcrowded. Ninety minutes by car from Grenoble, the village feels about a thousand miles away. In fact, with its 21 hairpin turns, it serves as a stop on the Tour de France. In the heart of the village is Au Grenier a delightful, cozy eatery with low vaulted ceilings, large picture windows, and a sunny terrace. The enormous alcove fireplace and rustic French oven add to its charm. Filled with plants, ivy reaches to the ceiling and color bursts from the blooms. The friendly owners, chef Sebastian Bureau and his wife Pascale Tailhandier, have roots in Provence and Brittany so Provencal dishes are served with what they call an “Alpine twist.” Many of the menu items incorporate local cheeses from the region including veal medallions with beaufort, roasted camembert served with apples, large croutons, and local cured ham, and of course the local speciality, tartiflette. They also serve spectacular standards like beef bourguignon, duck a l’orange, and blanquette du veau (a rustic veal dish with root vegetables and a rich creamy sauce—a French favorite). For dessert, try the aumônière d’amandes caramélisées, a pancake wrapped around vanilla ice-cream with caramelized almonds, creamy caramel, and hot chocolate sauce. Avenue de Brandes, Alpe d’Huez. Tel: 011-33-476-806-411.

Atop the mountain in Alpe D’Huez are two fantastic, cozy chalet restaurants with wood beamed ceilings, wood walls, and giant fireplaces. Le Signal has a panoramic view of the entire valley, killer French onion soup, and fantastic homemade pastries. The owner loves serving guests his homemade Génépi, a local liquor made with Alpine flowers. Tel: 011-33-476-803-954.

The funkier Chalet du Lac Besson lies on another area of the mountain on the cross country and snowshoeing trail, and serves delicious hot mulled wine and fondue. Check out the collection of unique French pottery displayed throughout. Tel: 011-33-476-806-537.

The Alpine ski village La Clusaz was once a farming town and still retains its charm and hominess. (In fact, when in La Clusaz take a horse drawn sleigh, or calèche, to M. Clavel farm to see how the magnificent, buttery reblochon cheese is made). Chances are you’ll encounter few Americans, but what you will find are blankets and blankets of pristine snow on unpopulated trails in this little enclave near the glorious lakeside town, Annecy. In the center of the village is L’Ourson, a warm restaurant with beautiful wood menus and the ambiance of a living room. As the owners note, you can feel “as if you were in your own house.” Noted chef and owner Pierre Rieffel serves traditional French food, including regional dishes like fricassés de caïon (smoked bacon mixed with prune, potatoes, and candied fruits), which he cooks for five or six hours. Try the monkfish roasted in local blue vein cheese from Sassenage, the neighboring town. The fondue here is everything fondue should be: satisfying and a perfect blend of flavors. For the ultimate finale, order crème brûlée containing pieces of chocolate. Chef Rieffel truly knows his stuff! Working in restaurants for three decades, he studied in the French hotel school in Strasbourg and at the famed three Michelin star restaurant L’auberge de Lille. Pace de l’église, La Clusaz. Tel: 011-33-450-327-699.

Also in the heart of La Clusaz is La Scierie, a modern restaurant set in an imposing wood chalet with loads of picture windows. The sky-high ceiling, wood columns, beams, huge wooden fireplace, and state of the art lighting adds a sense of elegant grandeur and chic charm. Not to be missed is the famous plateau du bûcheron which contains a taste of specialities from the region including tartiflette, local sausage braised in the area’s Sovoie white wine, and polenta with cepe mushrooms. Husband and wife owners Fabienne and François Pollet Thioller are the perfect hosts. The food of the region, which includes cheese dishes served family-style such as fondue with beaufort, comté, and gruyère de Savoie melted in white wine and garlic, and la raclette (local cheese drizzled on potatoes and pork) are perfectly suited for the large wooden tables that allow for conviviality. Even the music here plays a key role in the restaurant as DJ Staveff spins electro tunes twice a week. 321-331 Route du col des Aravis, La Clusaz. Tel: 011-33-450-633-468. www.la-scierie.com

[Published: April, 2007]