Zürich,
Switzerland
BAUR
AU LAC
By Robert Adams
My partner and I travel to Zürich,
Switzerland a few times each year. Sometimes for just
a day or two if we are en route to another destination
on business. At other times, especially in spring and
summer, we book ourselves into a nice hotel for some
much needed rest and relaxation. We prefer staying near
the Old Town, as it is within easy walking distance
of the lake and a variety of cultural attractions. This
part of Zürich is quite romantic. Many of the streets
here are pedestrian-only, with numerous restaurants,
outdoor cafés, specialty shops, and a fun gay
scene.
On a recent trip, we discovered the
famed Baur au Lac (www.bauraulac.ch),
which recently celebrated its 165th anniversary. It’s
been operated by the same family since Johannes Baur
opened it in 1844. The Baur au Lac served as an elegant
residence for guests traveling incognito, and the hotel
has long been a favorite of the international elite,
hosting famous guests such as Austria’s Empress
Elisabeth (aka "Sissi"), the German Emperor
Wilhelm II, composer Richard Wagner (who gave the world
première of Die Walküre (The Valkyrie) at
the Baur au Lac), Franz Liszt, Zubin Mehta, Placido
Domingo, Elton John, Marc Chagall, Joan Miró,
and Fernando Botero.
Overlooking Lake Zürich and the
Alps on one side, and the Schanzengraben River on the
other, the Baur au Lac is set in its own private garden
only a few steps away from the Bahnhofstrasse, Zürich’s
famous shopping street. The location of the hotel couldn’t
be more perfect. There’s something quite wonderful
about waking up and going for a walk, run, or swim just
a few feet from your door with the majestic Alps forming
a stunning backdrop.
After a $50,000,000 renovation completed
in 2009, 32 of the hotel’s rooms and suites have
been redesigned and reconfigured into 22 larger suites,
junior suites, and deluxe double rooms. All suites at
the Baur au Lac are now equipped with Bose sound systems,
and all guest rooms feature flat screen television,
iPod docking stations, wireless Internet, and mini-bars.
I must admit, there are many days when
we do not get out of bed until the afternoon. Our friends
in Zürich, especially the boys at Cranberry
Bar (www.cranberry.ch),
like to have fun, and we often find ourselves celebrating
until early in the morning. It is on days like these
that our choice of hotel proves most important. Copious
amounts of Champagne and cocktails can wreak havoc on
your body if you don’t get enough to eat. That’s
why a hotel with good, 24-hour room service is essential.
Equally important is a nice hotel restaurant where you
can entertain friends, or enjoy a romantic dinner for
two.
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SLIDESHOW
OF BAUR AU LAC
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The culinary heart of the Baur au Lac
is the newly redesigned and reopened Pavillon restaurant—long
a Zürich favorite in summertime, but now open year-round.
Its setting, in a private garden beside the river, combined
with Chef Laurent Eperon’s modern interpretations
of classical French cuisine, makes for the perfect aphrodisiac.
Start with poached lobster tail and vegetables with caviar
from Aquitaine and segue into perfectly prepared pan-fried
sole, Grenoble style, with dill potatoes and Provence
broccoli, or roast rack of lamb with rosemary and poached
lamb tenderloin in herb crust with sautéed potatoes
and shallots. Every bite was so delicious and sensual
I later asked Herr Eperon to marry me (although, I think
he’s straight).
Speaking of sensual, Gigi Kracht, the
wife of the hotel’s owner, stages amazing art exhibits
on the grounds of the Baur au Lac called Art In The
Park (www.art-in-the-park.net).
Her appreciation of art heralds the incredible contribution
of an international roster of artists that includes
Louise Bourgeois, Henri Laurens, Sophia Vari, Robert
Indiana, Sol LeWitt, Louise Nevelson, James Licini,
Yves Klein, Aleksander Rodchenko, and numerous others.
The Art In The Park exhibits give guests of the hotel
the opportunity to stroll through the garden and personally
enjoy the works of art in a setting that is sure to
incite the imagination. During our visit earlier this
year, we spent some time each evening at sunset wandering
among the sculptures and visualizing a world where art
takes precedence and becomes the guiding force in life.
This concept is easy to imagine when
you’re visiting Zürich, especially at the
Kunsthaus (www.kunsthaus.ch),
one of the top museums in the world. Its permanent collection
is a treasure trove of mankind’s greatest artistic
expression and includes works by Picasso, Léger,
Matisse, Mondrian, Klee, Chagall, Giacometti, and many
more.
After a day perusing art, shopping for
unique gifts at one of the city’s fascinating boutiques,
or communing with nature in the hills surrounding the
city, head back to the Baur Au Lac and enjoy a snack
or aperitif at the Terrasse. Order a glass of
organic Swiss wine, savor the view of Lake Zürich
and the Alps, and perhaps propose to the one you love.
In a setting like this, romance will definitely be on
your mind.
[Published:
December, 2009]
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