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The most recognizable people in Bahia are the Baianas, women in traditional muslin (usually white) billowing petticoats and dresses with lace trim. Accented with matching white turbans and gold jewelry with seashell necklaces, these women are the keepers of the flame, not only in the kitchen, but also throughout daily life in Bahia. Just as Baianas are synonymous with the cuisine of the region, the acarajé is the signature food of the Baiana. This relatively simple item, a deep-fried “fritter” made from mashed beans and fried in dendé oil (palm oil) is all about who makes it and what goes into it. Baianas de Acarajé (the traditional women who prepare and sell acarajé) can be found throughout Bahia, from truck stops to street corners, outside nightclubs, and near the beach. Some of the acarajé you may want to try include: the vatapá, a paste of shrimp, peanut, and coconut milk, and the caruru, which is something of an okra stew. You’ll also find sun-dried shrimp (which will raise the price nominally), as well as an assortment of hot sauce and salsa. At around US$2, this is a perfect snack anytime of day.

There are also many fine restaurants where visitors can savor the wonderful cuisine of this celebrated part of Brazil.

Sorriso da Dadá (Rua Frei Vicente, 05, Pelourinho. Tel: 71- 3321-9642) is located in the historic neighborhood of Pelourinho, a colonial section of Salvador with winding cobblestone streets and colorfully painted buildings. Dadá is one of Salvador’s most famous chefs and she’s created a miniature culinary empire in part for her cooking, and a bit because of her signature smile (sorriso)—thus the name. Dadá’s international notoriety has led some to argue that her flagship restaurant isn’t what it used to be. During my recent visit, Dadá was not on the premises, which is now often the case, but I found the quaint restaurant to be very clean and charming. To dine in this historic neighborhood, in this enchanting building, is to take a journey back in time—even the lace tablecloths found here today would have adorned such tables many generations ago. The Xinxim de Galinha served here is a generous chicken stew of garlic, lime juice, peppers, cashews, peanuts, cilantro, ginger, and coconut milk. The creamy texture, with a bit of crunch and its subtle heat, makes this my favorite dish from Bahia. It’s helpful to keep in mind that throughout Bahia, main dishes usually serve two people nicely, and rice and black beans are very much an accompanying staple. Another condiment popular in Bahia and throughout Brazil is Farofa, ground and toasted manioc (also known as cassava or yucca) seasoned with salt, spices, and smoked meats. Farofa’s grainy texture compliments heavy sauces and goes great with black beans. Farofa is served widely throughout Brazil in homes and restaurants alike.

Yemanjá (Av. Otávio Mangabeira, 4.655, Jardim Armaçao. Tel: 55-71-3461-9010. http://www.restauranteyemanja.com.br) is a bright and lively restaurant with a nautical theme and tropical atmosphere, located directly across from a popular beach. On the afternoon of my visit, I found the place to be bustling with native Brazilians and very few foreigners, which is always a good sign. Yemanjá offers delicious Moquecas (pronounced mo-ke-ka) which are traditional fish stews with fresh herbs, spices, coconut milk, urucum seeds, and dendé oil. There are as many varieties of Moqueca as there are fish, however, my favorite is the Moqueca de Camerao made with shrimp in lieu of fish. Served with the standard rice and farofa, the comforting mellow spice of these stews is paired best with an ice-cold beer.

By now you’re probably familiar with churrascarias, the Brazilian-style steakhouses where meat is served rodizio style, meaning that waiters continually circulate with over a dozen cuts of garlic-marinated meats and sausages, serving as much as you can handle. Boi Preto (Black Bull) (Avenida Otávio Mangabeira, Jardim Armação, Salvador. Tel: 71-3362-8844. http://www.grupoboipreto.com.br) is a local favorite with several locations across Brazil. A focal point here is the massive “salad buffet” stocked with fresh local treats such as hearts of palm salad, squid, clams, and octopus. Arrive hungry and remember not to fill up on everyone’s favorite, Pão de Queijo (miniature cheese bread).

Maria Mata Mouro (Rua 3rd Ordem de São Francisco, Pelourinho, Salvador. Tel: 71-3321-3929. http://www.mariamatamouro.com.br) is one of Pelourinho’s most elegant restaurants, located in a centuries-old home. I found the quaint, terraced garden courtyard in the back of the restaurant, with only a dozen tables, to be a terrific spot for a leisurely lunch. The menu is a tad eclectic with a few traditional local offerings and some more recognizable dishes like pasta and filet mignon. More playful dishes include ostrich and mushroom risotto, and grouper in a ginger sauce. With an afternoon of sightseing in store, I went for a light lunch and enjoyed a generous shrimp salad with fresh mango in a tangy vinaigrette, along with a glass of crisp Pinot Grigio. The sun-kissed foliage and the weather-beaten exposed brick called to mind the Ivy restaurant back home in Los Angeles, only here there were no paparazzi lurking in the bushes.

Sitting on the water, Trapiche Adelaide (Praça do Tupinambás No.2. Tel: 71-3326-2211. http://www.trapicheadelaide.com.br) is a beautiful, upscale, and modern restaurant with floor-to-ceiling windows looking out over the bay in Salvador’s historic Cidade Baixa neighborhood. The first restaurant in Salvador to offer high-end continental cuisine in such a sleek setting, Trapiche Adelaide is also a local favorite for sunset cocktails.

If all the rich Comida Baiana becomes too much, you may want to try Sato Japanese (3959 Avenida Sete de Setembro, Barra, Salvador. Tel: 71-3264-6464. http://www.satorestaurante.com.br) for some traditional fresh sushi. Right next door to Sato is Pereira Restaurante (Avenida Sete de Setembro, 3959, Barra, Salvador. Tel: 71-3264-6464. http://www.pereirarestaurante.com.br), offering an upscale bar menu of contemporary tapas with an emphasis on pastas and seafood. Inside you’ll find groups of beach-chic patrons chilling out to Bossa Nova, and enjoying a cold draft beer or caipirinha. The spacious patio overlooking the popular gay beach of Barra is a also a perfect spot for late-afternoon people watching.

Due in part to the weak dollar, upscale restaurants can be rather pricy in Brazil. Dinner at all of the above-mentioned restaurants is on par with the United States, around US$30 per person and up (a 10% gratuity is usually included on the bill).

Meanwhile, tasty and affordable meals are easy to find if you get off the tourist track and follow the locals. Just about every bar on the street serves decent food. What you’ll usually get is rice and beans, with grilled chicken or beef, and maybe a small salad for less than US$10. Throughout Bahia, you’ll also find delectable and affordable salgados (small pastries either baked or fried, with savory fillings such as cheese, shrimp, and chicken) virtually everywhere, from corner bars and street vendors to quaint Internet cafés.

For travelers who enjoy spending their time at the shore, beachfront restaurants with bars (called Barracas) offer simple sandwiches and plate lunches along with ice-cold beer. You’ll also find wandering vendors at popular beaches with everything a hungry beach-lover could want, including Queijo Fundido, a salty and tender cheese, lightly grilled over hot coals before your eyes; Sanduiche Natural (cold sandwiches); and frozen fruit juice snacks.

If you develop a thirst while enjoying the hot tropical sun, sipping cold coconut water straight out of a coconut with the top chopped off is a great way to stay hydrated. When you’ve finished your drink, ask the vendor to open up the coconut and break off a “scooper” so you can eat the coconut jelly inside.

[Published: April, 2008]