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The reasons for the dramatic change in their lives were many. The majestic views and wonderful weather, complete with four seasons, called to them. There was also their love for design and art collecting that motivated them. Here they would have time and space to dream, design, curate, and play. Given Johnson’s previous career as an architect, he handled much of the architectural design of the property. With Heath’s talent in design, the decorations were a marriage of their personal collection from the past and new items Heath discovered by scouring the area’s plentiful art markets. To this day, each suite is uniquely decorated by Heath, and he can recall with amazing detail how and where he acquired every end table and lamp. Johnson’s other passion in life is cooking, and Rancho de San Juan afforded him the opportunity to fulfill his dream of being a self-taught, widely acclaimed chef. To this day, Johnson’s duties are largely relegated to the kitchen while Heath works the front desk. Johnson and Heath are committed to being hands-on, active operators, and not simply owners. Rancho de San Juan officially opened in 1994 with a mere five bedrooms, a small restaurant, and the owners’ personal residence.

In 1996, the couple created a 13-acre condominium complex with ten freestanding vacation units on the south end of their property. They designed, built, furnished, and then sold these spacious units, which double as inn accommodations when not in use by the owners. These units allow the inn to double its occupancy to accommodate up to 30 guests. The popularity of the restaurant, with both guests and local residents, had them expand capacity from 16 to 44 diners. Another development in 2004 saw the creation of a luxury residential subdivision with six very private, ten-plus acre lots just to the north of the inn. Five lots at the Haciendas at Rancho de San Juan sold quickly and only one lot remains.

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It’s a beautiful spring afternoon when I visit Rancho de San Juan for the first time, and the garden courtyard around the inn is in full bloom with bright tulips and bougainvillea. The air in this high desert region is clean and crisp, and the wide blue sky hosts a series of billowing bright-white clouds at the horizon. David Heath and John Johnson have sent me on a short hike in search of something they tell me is quite spectacular. As I hike up through a dry wash, I notice a set of rather large tracks. I know from experience that these tracks are fresh and belong to a mountain lion. Being alone, I feel slightly nervous, but know that the large cat would fear me more than I do it. At least that’s what I tell myself. The hike turns a little vigorous as I pull myself out of the wash and continue up the rocky hillside. In the distance to the west, half a mile past the inn, I see a thick row of large cottonwood trees coming to life again on the banks of the Rio Chama. Assuming the large cat is enjoying an afternoon drink at the river, I opt to quicken my pace for fear of an awkward meeting.

At the top of the trail, the view is fantastic with green junipers dotting the landscape and shards of sunlight piercing the clouds. It’s not really the view I came up here to see. Reaching into my pocket I pull out a key and look for a door going into the mountain. One could almost walk right by and not notice the large windows carved into the side of the mountain. A hand-carved sandstone sanctuary isn’t something one normally expects to find in the middle of a hike (I later learned that David and John commissioned an artist to construct this secluded chamber with the understanding the project would take about six months. As with most construction, there were delays, and the end result was two and a half years in the making). This spacious sanctuary has exquisitely detailed work, space for seating, separate rooms, wonderful views, and even a front door. The surreal effect of this hand-carved masterpiece calls to mind the aphorism of a sculptor revealing a form already in the stone by slowly chipping away the exterior. Only this artist chipped endlessly away at the interior. Hotel guests visit the sandstone chapel to marvel, meditate, or simply enjoy the view. John and David have also had celebrity weddings, commitment ceremonies, literature readings, and music recitals here. This eclectic and quirky addition to Rancho de San Juan only heightens the otherworldly atmosphere found by enjoying fine dining and resort living in such a rural and unhurried destination. Awestruck by the craftsmanship, I easily lose track of time and notice the coming sunset. While I’m sure the sunset would have been astounding, there’s a certain cat I’m intending to miss.

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