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Tonight, I'm enjoying the display from aboard the Aqua Luna, a pimped-out, red-sailed, Chinese junk boat that makes a nightly cocktail cruise for the occasion. Green lasers fire outward from several rooftops, zapping over our heads toward the opposite sides of the harbor. I’m happily caught in the middle of this playful sci-fi war.

Come daylight, Hong Kong’s prosperity is equally visible. Ambitious new developments are springing up on fresh patches of reclaimed land—ground once submerged in the harbor, now built up to surface level. One is Kowloon’s in-progress ICC (Inter­national Commerce Center). The 118-floor skyscraper’s top 16 levels will house a new Ritz-Carlton (the world’s tallest hotel), set to open in late 2010. If all goes according to plan, in a few more years the ICC will be joined by a high-speed train terminal servicing Mainland China, contemporary art museum M+, and an opera house.

Hong Kong is incredibly accessible to English-speakers on both a cultural and practical level. As a result of over a century of British colonialism (the hand-over back to China occurred in July 1997), English influence and customs remain. A sense of decorum, including daily high tea (favorite venues include the Mandarin Oriental and Peninsula hotels), and widespread use of English itself—both printed and spoken.

Contributing to the unique fusion of East and West are the Westerners themselves. There are over 35,000 Caucasians living and working here, occupying all professional sectors, from hospitality to finance to public relations. The vast majority of these expats live on Hong Kong Island. Its Lan Kwai Fong neighborhood is their de facto playground, packed with international bars, restaurants, and hangouts, from Aussie pubs to California-style gyms.

ORIENTATION
Hong Kong International Airport houses a staggering cornucopia of shops, restaurants, and attractions like Asia Hollywood, dedicated to HK’s prolific film industry. Cathay Pacific Airline’s upper class lounges, The Wing and The Pier, boast super comforts including spa-style shower/bath facilities, PS2 stations, six private “Day-Break Rooms” (at The Wing only), and complimentary dining and cocktails.

The Airport Express train reaches Kowloon and Hong Kong Island in just over 20 minutes (and, in the other direction, HK Disneyland and AsiaWorld-Expo). Buy an Octopus Card, good for use on all of HK’s major transportation modes including MTR (subway), buses, the Star Ferry (which crosses the Harbor all day), and trams. You simply touch the card to an orange sensor and the fare deducts electronically. You can even use it at convenience stores and MTR station automats that sell sherbet-hued umbrellas (invaluable during spring and summer rainy spells). Meanwhile, taxis are plentiful and relatively inexpensive, and they’re your sole option for getting between HK Island and Kowloon after hours.

Once arrived, pick up the latest issue of biweekly Time Out and freebie publications HK and BC for current event calendars. Monthly Dim Sum Magazine, which can be downloaded online in PDF format, is the gay scene’s bible.

STAYING IN STYLE
In general, Hong Kong’s hotels, and a growing number of serviced apartments, cater to business travelers. Open since May 2006, the 26-story Lanson Place is situated in Causeway Bay, a neighborhood bustling with the young and trendy. Very much geared to business travelers, Lanson Place sees 85% corporate occupancy, much of it from IT, advertising, and investment sectors, and offers weekly and monthly rates. Its 194 modern rooms boast short-stay apartment conveniences including kitchenettes, iPod docks, a local mobile phone (with free local calls), LCD flatscreen TV, laptop (if requested), Wi-Fi, and plenty of individual storage and workspace. Facilities include a gym, business center, and launderette, all open 24-hours. The floor-to-ceiling views are spectacular, overlooking Hong Kong Stadium and the valley that cradles it.

The Upper House joined other five-star hotel neighbors at the upscale Pacific Place retail development in 2009. Understated, tasteful Zen and serenity rule the design and ambiance with calming harbor or peak views, clean lines, and pale, woody interiors. Add to this serious 21st-century bling in the technology department: an iPod Touch serves as a directory and connection to all in-house (and some outside) services; ports for computer and a/v components; and a bedside control panel for lights and “do not disturb” indicator. Minibar contents are complimentary (and tailored to your tastes), and a pouch of REN bath amenities awaits. A bonus thoughtful touch is an in-room toaster for freshly browned bread at breakfast. A bar and the incredible Café Grey offer sublime meals and cocktails, impressive décor (leather-topped tables), and a pleasantly posh atmosphere.

Connected to the iconic ifc tower (the one Batman jumped from in The Dark Knight), and its namesake high-end mall, is The Four Seasons, one of HK’s most luxurious properties. Here, 399 rooms come in two different styles: contempo Chinese or Western, while incredibly comfortable beds, 42-inch flatscreen TVs, and rain showers run standard. Executive Club privileges include expedited check-in/out, hot breakfast and all-day refreshments, complimentary high-speed Internet and local calls, access to the 45th floor EC lounge, pressing service for up to six garments, and private use of the boardroom for one hour. Business amenities include multi-function printers in every room, a 24-hour business center, and secretarial service. Two ballrooms overlook the harbor, as does a 24-hour fitness center and gorgeous outdoor infinity pool. If you’re needing to wind down, the spa is a must: its facilities include several saunas (Finnish, crystal, steam) and a men’s flotation tank.

Just across the harbor, Kowloon’s Tsim Sha Tsui neighborhood is dense with five-star hotels like the Intercontinental, shopping centers, and glamorous restaurants. The 492-room The Mira (formerly, and sometimes still referred to as, the Miramar) is clubby in vibe (lifestyle guru Colin Cowie had a substantial hand in the design), yet efficiency, technology, and business-friendliness rank high on the priority list. Electrical outlets are fitted with universal adapters; the flatscreen TV is connected to a multimedia system that functions as a computer, with a full suite of Microsoft Office applications and Internet, Blu-Ray player, and wireless remote keyboard; Bose iPod dock; a Nokia mobile room phone; and complimentary Wi-Fi access. Rooms come in four different color schemes, while larger suites verge on lounge-glam with heightened deco and techno flourishes like Bang & Olufsen touch-screen remotes. The hotel also features a diverse handful of restaurants that are suitable for both business and leisure, as well as a spa.

West Kowloon’s 393-room W Hotel, opened in August 2008, is an art installation you can sleep in. Multimedia visual surprises lie behind every corner (i.e. a vibrantly animated “painting” behind the check-in desk), and ditto for smart utilitarian touches including electric chargers within room safes so you can protect and replenish laptops concurrently, and soundproofed doors. Facilities include a business center with full Mac/PC and A/V equipment; outdoor WET swimming pool overlooking the harbor; SWEAT Fitness center; Bliss spa, restaurants Kitchen and Fire (the latter hosts a US$20 “power lunch” weekdays from 12-2 P.M.); and clubby Living Room bar/lounge. Con­veniently, the high-end Elements mall (there’s a movie theater and indoor ice skating rink within) and Airport Express train station are located just next-door.

DINING DELIGHTS
Hong Komg has long pleased foodies with its diverse offerings, from street fare to world-class cuisine in design-centric venues. One expects to see Lady GaGa or Karl Lagerfeld (or, heck, both, with a Richard Branson chaser) come gliding down the spiral steps at Zuma, where Japanese Izakaya gets a glamorous camera-ready treatment. The menu includes top-notch creative sushi/sashimi creations (Wagyu beef tartare with Oscietre caviar and freshly ground wasabi), Robata grill dishes, and desserts (green tea banana cake with coconut and peanut toffee sauce). When in doubt order the tasting menu, or simply take the drinks route, perhaps with a sake-fresh fruit cocktail at the upstairs level bar/lounge or 36-person outdoor terrace. One happy note for the alcohol-averse: a mocktail section is de rigueur on HK’s higher-end wine/cocktail lists.

Walking the glowing catwalk that runs through The Four Seasons’ three-Michelin-starred Caprice is but the first sign you are “in.” The décor concept is Asia as seen through French eyes: crystal chandeliers dangling Chinese lantern tassels as one such example. Meanwhile, Chef Vincent Thierry’s cuisine is an artful affair, from clean, sophisticated dishes like langoustine carpaccio with sour cucumber or wasabi jelly and caviar, to the customized plates themselves.