WALES
by Rich Rubin
Fresh ingredients make Wales a prime candidate
for a rising culinary scene. As talented chefs take advantage
of the local assets—farm-raised beef, pork, lamb,
local seafood, and produce from all over this still-rural
country—Welsh cuisine has taken some interesting
spins. With mini “scenes” developing on the
Isle of Anglesey, the coastal towns of Saundersfoot and
Tenby, and the alluring Brecon Beacons, it’s not
just about the cities any more. Food in Wales has entered
a new era, one of creative cookery based, above all, on
the bounty that’s available at the chefs’ fingertips.
ARMLESS DRAGON (Cardiff)
A prime example of the new originality among Welsh
chefs, the Armless Dragon spins traditional Welsh cuisine
in exciting directions. Start with an appetizer plate
from “land,” “sea,” or “earth”
(meat, fish, or vegetarian), which will be stylishly
presented as a series of small tastes arrayed on a long
plate that features such delicacies as smoked Monmouthshire
chicken with avocado and Carmarthen ham crisps (land),
Pembrokeshire spider crab tart (sea), or a laverball—a
takeoff on laverbread, a local seaweed concoction—with
vegetables pickled in ginger (earth). Mains range from
leek tart with Welsh rarebit topping to a seafood cawl
that lightens up this traditional soup/stew by using
seafood instead of lamb. Satisfy your sweet tooth with
a caramelized lemon/Welsh honey tart, rich with local
clotted cream. The décor is low-key and stylish:
burnt orange walls, raku candle holders, constantly-changing
art on the walls. The menu changes daily, ensuring that
only the freshest ingredients will be used. It’s
a great spot to try traditional Welsh cuisine, with
an upscale twist and beautiful presentation. 97 Wyeverne
Road, Cardiff. Tel: +44-2920-382-357. http://www.armlessdragon.co.uk
PUMP HOUSE (Swansea)
Part of a consortium of pub restaurants, primarily
in Cardiff and Swansea, the Pump House combines an intriguing
location in the erstwhile pumping station for the canal
locks with a Bible-sized menu ranging from Indian to
traditional Welsh. What’s amazing is that the chef
excels in all these cuisines: chicken Tikka Masala will
be as perfectly done as chive-battered haddock and fries.
A carnivore’s delight like Welsh sirloin will thrill
the meat-eaters (try the mushroom/dark ale gravy), while
vegetarians relish wild mushroom/goat cheese lasagna
or squash/blue cheese/ sage “cheesecake.”
Service is friendly, the setting prime not only for
the historic building but the maritime atmosphere, with
large windows overlooking a canal full of ships. Pumphouse
Quay, Swansea. Tel: +44-1792-651-080. http://www.sabrain.com
CLIFF RESTAURANT (Saundersfoot)
St. Bride’s Hotel, the first luxury resort
on the Pembrokeshire coast, offers more than just gorgeous
rooms filled with the work of local artisans, from weavings
to ceramics to artwork. It also has one of this popular
region’s best restaurants. Pembrokeshire, while
quite touristed, is still largely farmland, and the
Cliff’s chef makes use of such bounty as local
beef, serving it with parsley mash and morel sauce,
or Welsh lamb, done with local organic wild mushrooms.
The sea view is prime, as is the cod with a leek boulangere
and red wine buerre blanc. You’ll enjoy the casual
but chic atmosphere, large windows looking to distant
sea, as you dig into chocolate tart with crushed pistachios
or yummy bread and butter pudding. If you’re lucky,
you’ll retire to your suite after a satisfying
meal. Even for non-guests, though, a pilgrimage here
is a must-do when on the coast. St. Bride’s Hotel,
Saundersfoot. Tel: +44-1834-812-304. http://www.stbridesspahotel.com
BLUE BALL RESTAURANT (Tenby)
Opened in October 2005 by Debbie Neale and Melanie
Fairman, the Blue Ball sets new standards for Tenby,
bringing fabulous food and a comfortable, casual, friendly
atmosphere to this touristic town on the Pembrokeshire
coast. Soft music plays, there’s art on the walls
for sale (for a change, it’s good), and wide-plank
wooden floors and timber ceilings are both rustic and
elegant. Most importantly, the food is simply a cut
above the usual Tenby grub, with such offerings as sesame-coated
monkfish on black pasta with a surprising pea/ginger
sauce, or pork Wellington made with Pembrokeshire pork.
Starters show an equal creativity, from duck samosas
to scallops on cauliflower/squash veloutée. To
finish, try tonka bean panna cotta with gooseberry compote,
or sticky ginger pudding. Upper Frog St., Tenby. Tel:
+44-1834-843-038. http://www.theblueballrestaurant.co.uk
 COURTYARD
(Beaumari)
The Courtyard has upped the ante in Beaumaris,
on the Isle of Anglesey. Just forty minutes from North
Wales, this island destination, connected by two bridges
to the “mainland,” is a bit off the beaten
path, but adventurers can reward themselves at this
cool and cozy restaurant/wine bar, with a pleasantly
minimalist look and, of course, the eponymous courtyard.
Appetizers range from smoked haddock soufflé
to toasted goat cheese focaccia with pickled pears.
For mains choose such ever-changing offerings as sea
bass with red pepper risotto, saddle of Welsh lamb with
sun-dried tomato and pine nut stuffing, or chicken in
white wine/juniper berry sauce. Dessert? Their sticky
toffee pudding is among the best, topped with a pecan-laden
sauce. Another winner is the lemon tart, with a fresh
berry compote and lemonade sorbet. Church Street, Beaumaris.
Tel: +44-1248-810-565. http://www.courtyardcuisine.com
TRE-YSGAWEN (Llangefni)
Even if you aren’t a guest at this Isle of
Anglesey country house hotel, get yourself here for
dinner. You’ll order in the lovely bar, with stone
fireplace and russet flocked wallpaper. After sipping
drinks, you’ll be summoned to the dining room,
a vision of elegance in pale pink and green. You might
try a tart of Italian blue cheese and onion marmalade,
or a Mediterranean vegetable terrine, set in tomato
jelly with an olive tapenade and Parmesan crisps. Welsh
beef comes with garlic mash and a startling little horseradish
beignet, while Anglesey sea bass is a work of art, atop
a round potato fondant, with red and yellow pepper compotes
dancing around the fish. It all looks gorgeous and,
even better, every bite is pure heaven. Splurge on dessert
(the price is fixed, so you might as well), which might
be a fascinating white chocolate/basil mousse, or a
lusciously rich tart made from local rhubarb and topped
with rhubarb/ginger ice cream. Finish with coffee and
petit fours in the lounge for divine refinement. Capel
Coch, Llangefni. Tel: +44-1248-750-750. http://www.treysgawen-hall.co.uk
ROBERTO’S (Brecon)
This town of 8,000, in the middle of golden hills
that beckon hikers, cyclists, and nature lovers, might
not seem the place for a fine Italian restaurant, but
that’s just what you get with Roberto’s, a
Brecon favorite since its 2002 opening in the former
post office. There’s an unpretentious, welcoming
feel: fake grapevines hanging from the ceiling, tiles
of Michelangelo frescoes, sideboard with wine rack,
courtyard surrounded by bamboo. Choose one of the favorites,
like Tortellini Valdostani (pasta pockets filled with
gorgonzola cheese and porcini mushrooms), Pollo Paesano
(chicken with Parma ham, porcinis, and tallegio cheese),
or Fileto a Sorpresa (fillet steak with truffles, ham,
and buffalo mozzarella). While it’s always packed
with customers, service here is good and it’s delivered
with a smile and an expansive welcome. St. Mary’s
Street, Brecon. Tel: +44-1874-611-880.
TIPPLE ‘N’ TIFFIN (Brecon)
Its location right inside Brecon’s theatre
lets you know this will be a dramatic meal. Tipple ‘n’
Tiffin lives up to its airy canalside setting with bold
flavor combinations and a mellow, artsy air. Try mussels
with wine/cream, or deep-fried cockles before proceeding
to winners like chargrilled organic salmon, or fabulous
crispy duck legs with apple/onion compote. The best
course of action: order several plates and share. Since
they’re big enough for several people to savor
each new creation that arrives, you can all experience
the melt-in-mouth barbecued lamb or spicy/sweet pork
in Hoisin marinade on chile noodles. Home-cured charcuterie
or a nice cheeseboard are also eminently shareable.
Canal Wharf, Brecon. Tel: +44-1874-611-866. http://www.brycheiniog.co.uk
GLIFFAES (Powys)
You haven’t tasted fresh until you’ve
been at this country manor turned hotel/restaurant.
Over two-thirds of its produce is sourced from within
50 miles, and its membership in the “slow food
movement” means preparation is loving and taste
is prime. Menus change according to availability, but
might well feature dishes like Welsh beef with a horseradish
potato pancake, or diver scallops with a minted pea
puree. Even vegetarians can live it up with such offerings
as a roasted cherry tomato/chicory risotto. Whether
you’re in one of a series of lovely rooms or (in
good weather) looking out over hills and stream from
the stone terrace, you’ll end your meal in style:
ricotta terrine with praline and roasted figs, or pear
pastries with rosemary/chile ice cream. Gliffaes is
the perfect combination of great food and countryside
elegance. Crickhowell, Powys. Tel: +44-1874-730-371.
http://www.gliffaeshotel.com
[Published:
October, 2007]
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