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ST. MORITZ
POST HAUS
In the middle of this pedestrian-friendly town of the rich and famous, Lord Norman Foster has recently designed a new building complex, The Murezzan, and its cornerstone is the stylish, contemporary Post Haus. The long, deep space splits naturally into different zones for different uses. The front bar area is a meeting spot and overflow area for those without reservations. Going deeper into the softly-lit space bolstered by a wall of gothic-esque arched windows affording a view onto shopping fashionistas below, satisfied diners toast one another over sparkling wine. Further back is an open kitchen and grill, as well as a casual cocktail bar. Sepia tone Alpine sport photos line the mushroom-colored walls of this warm room, uncharacteristic for Lord Foster’s typically austere modern style. The crowd is fashionable, as if there is any other type in St. Moritz, with a sprinkling of royals, celebrities, the super rich, and the just fabulous. The attitude here is decidedly quiet and mellow (until later at night when it becomes a de facto nightspot in a town with few late evening options). The menu is “contemporary Alpine dining” with an Italian flare—the crisply efficient waitstaff is predominantly Italian and well versed in wine pairings and recommendations. Grilled international offerings, including various pasta and seafood dishes, dominate. Summer heat is mitigated by a lightly seasoned whitefish tartare and a cool artichoke, avocado, and parmesan salad. The locally caught angler fish special is paired with ruby red tomatoes over guilty pleasure crispy potatoes, while langoustine over basmati rice and peas is deeply satisfying. Dessert is a must, especially the gluttonous chocolate soufflé with vanilla sorbet. Via dal Vout 3, St. Moritz. Tel: +41-81-833-8080. http://www.post-haus.ch

VELTLINER KELLER
St. Moritz nearly bursts its couture seams with beautiful visitors, but if you want to eat with or like a local, you venture off the well-trod path. On a side street in the quiet old town, a rustic tavern/café serves hearty Swiss/Italian specialties in unpretentious surrounds. At Veltliner Keller there is a moose head on the wall, dogs sleeping at the feet of diners, chintz café curtains on the windows, blond wood wainscoting, and an old stone open fire grill dominates with searing, tantalizing meats. Local wines are served in farm glass carafes, tableware is mix and match, and the food is amazing. A specialty of the house is pizzocheri, fettuccine-like pasta made with a local rye grain known as grano saraceno and cooked with cabbage and casera, a mild local cow’s milk cheese. This hearty, heavy farmer’s food is stick-to-your-ribs divine, only outdone by the “gypsy skewer” of grilled meat and bacon. Though we were trying to be healthy and diet-conscious…we ordered a second round of skewers and convinced ourselves that ordering simple fresh fruit for dessert would counteract the calories. Via del Bagn 11, St. Moritz. Tel: +41-81-833-4009.

LUGANO
LA VERANDA
Just an hour from Milan and neighbor to Lake Como, Lugano, in the Canton of Ticino, is more Italian than Swiss, and the cuisine follows suit. Freshwater fish and locally grown vegetables from the sunny, mild clime, pastas, dried cured meats, and local varietal wines are all specialties, especially in the local grotti (grottoes—shady local cafés with mostly outdoor seating). The food can be hit or miss in grotti that tourists are likely to discover, so we opt for more lavish fare at the restaurant of the hyper-elegant Hotel Splendide Royal. The hotel’s La Veranda restaurant is a buttoned up, opulent dining room with gilt details and crystal chandeliers, tuxedoed waiters, a tinkling grand piano, and enormous windows overlooking the stunning shore of Lake Lugano. The wine list, including local Ticino vintages, is international, like the dressed up crowd, enjoying the performance art of tableside preparation of specialties. Carts dripping in polished silver are wheeled from one white linen table to the next where the white-gloved staff tosses salads, mixes pastas, and flambés everything that is flammable. Dishes are classically French and Italian, and the evening is long and languorous with oh-so-European pacing that can drive some antsy Americans crazy. This is your grown-up splurge meal, so indulge in heavy sauces and rich desserts. Dishes like Catalan lobster, merlot risotto, and a sinful Carbonara are as good as the show as servers wield tools in one hand, the other casually held at their lower backs, and the heat from a neighboring table’s flambé flares up to the oohhs and ahhs of the rest of the room. Tiered silver dessert trays will fill you up with sweet bites if you don’t want anything that is set on fire. Riva Caccia 7, Lugano. Tel: +41-91-985-7711. http://www.splendide.ch

LUZERN
VINOTEK OPUS
If weather permits, join Luzerners and visitors en masse and dine at the river’s edge in old town Luzern, gazing across the fast-moving current under covered bridges as swans twirl in the eddies. There are too many mediocre touristy joints here that will suck you in for bland food and loud drunkenness, but there is one riverside terrace perfect for idling away the sunset hours into the night. Vinotek Opus is an enormous wine bar with a generous outdoor space (as well as dining rooms indoors) sheltered in the elbow-like nook of two large medieval structures. The wine list boasts more than 650 labels at various price points, and it is worth settling in and working your way through glasses of several of them. Pop indoors for the teeming bread bar with salads and olives if you just want to nibble, or order from the busy servers for something more substantial. The continental menu has inexpensive, light fare for a warm night with freshwater fish options that won’t weigh you down. Don’t let yourself get caught up in that red for meat, white for fish and fowl traditionalism—nobody plays by those rules any more. Smoked salmon tartare is a huge portion, and nicely balanced with a rosé or even a huge cabernet if that’s what intrigues you. A spicy seafood stew is enough for two, and paired nicely with a young Bordeaux. Stick around and enjoy live musicians playing in a corner of the terrace, and forego dessert to tuck into a sparkling Prosecco or a smooth sauternes. Bahnhofstrasse 16, Luzern.
Tel: +41-41-226-4141.

WIRSTHAUS TAUBE
For chillier nights in Luzern, when sitting by a fire takes priority over sitting by the water, tuck into heartier cuisine that will warm as well as fill you up. Just off the well-trafficked riverside walkways, past the Spreuerbrucke (Mill Bridge), is Taube (The Pigeon), a traditional eatery specializing in “authentic Luzerner cuisine,” which means lots of sausages and creamed meat dishes. Don’t for one second assume this is a criticism—we’re talking brilliant sausages and the like. While not exactly a locals-only joint, nor is the somewhat rustic, mostly blond wood dining room overrun with tourists. There’s a nice blend of unfussy folks resting their weary feet after navigating the hills and cobblestones of Luzern. Order a favorite like Stroganoff, rösti, or Luzerner Kügelipastete, a local version of a potpie: flaky pastry crust surrounding creamy sauce, sautéed mushrooms, and tender veal. Add a few sausages, and you won’t need to eat again for days. Burgerstrasse 3, Luzern. Tel: +41-210-0747. http://www.taube-luzern.ch

ZÜRICH
PARKHUUS
Contemporary design and Swiss sophistication come together brilliantly at the Park Hyatt Zürich, and this stunning hotel is complemented by a refreshingly forward thinking approach to fine cuisine at the Parkhuus restaurant. Executive Chef, Frank Widmer, melds local Swiss ingredients with international flavors. The menu is based on innovative, global cuisine that makes use of seasonal produce from local Swiss markets and is complemented by an exclusive selection of Swiss and international vintages. While the quality of the ingredients will surprise your taste-buds, visually the restaurant has an equally strong impact. Featuring floor-to-ceiling glass on three sides, its heart is an open show kitchen where guests can see the chefs at work, and their food being prepared. Equally visible is the two-story wine library that houses 3,000 bottles of wine and has its own spiral staircase for access. In the summer months, the restaurant’s glass-paneled walls open at street level, allowing for al fresco dining on the terrace. Whether it is artisan cheeses and smoked meats from the mountains surrounding Zürich, or seawater fish from the coast of France, only the finest ingredients are allowed into Frank Widmer’s kitchen. Emphasis is placed on natural products and properly reared livestock. As a guarantee of quality the provenance of all ingredients are shown on the menu. Signature dishes here include free-range chicken, oven-roasted red snapper, lamb tenderloin, and seasonal vegetables prepared on the wood-burning oven. Beethovenstrasse 21, Zurich. Tel: +41-43-883-1075. http://www.zurich.park.hyatt.com

[Published: August, 2007]