Seductive
BARCELONA
by Thomas Mizer
From the tiny observation deck high inside
an iron column tribute to Christopher Columbus, the Monument
a Colom, my partner and I leaned into one another—both
out of affection and claustrophobic necessity—as
we surveyed a darkening Barcelona below us. We were only
a few dazed hours off the plane, still unsure of our uncharacteristically
spontaneous decision to hop on a flight for a romantic
getaway. We squeezed closer together, a breeze sliding
in from the Mediterranean. Sensuous and enveloping, generous
and accommodating, Barcelona was already casting her spell.
Our home base, and our saving grace
when the jetlag took hold, was the Axel Hotel
(Carrer Aribau 33. Tel: 011-34-93-323-9393. www.axelhotels.com),
a relaxing, chic property dedicated to LGBT visitors,
as well as a hub for locals in the “Gayxample”.
During our first 24 hours, we barely left the hotel—and
there was no need given the comfortable, minimalist
rooms accentuated with sensual art, the bustling lobby
bar, the extraordinarily kind staff, and the enticing
rooftop Jacuzzi. While the hotel is absolutely welcoming
and quiet for couples, for those who want a little more
adventure in their romantic life the Axel provides door
hangers that read “Please Disturb.”
Rejuvenated, we headed out to explore
the diverse and easily-accessible neighborhoods of the
city, needing nothing more than a map, a multi-day unlimited
subway card (available at machines in all stations),
and our attempt at stylish walking shoes. We lingered
along the boutique-lined diagonals of l’Eixample,
masterpieces of modernist architecture like Gaudí’s
otherworldly, unfinished cathedral La Sagrada Familia
were visible around every corner (Carrer de Mallorca
401. Tel: 011-34-93-208-0414. www.sagradafamilia.org).
Following a tip from a resident, we experienced traditional
tapas at Cerveseria Catalana (Carrer de Mallorca
236. Tel: 011-34-93-216-0368), an overflowing lunchtime
favorite featuring great wine and simple, cleanly presented
seafood—including the freshest, meatiest calamari
I’ve ever tasted.
In La Ribera, a district of narrow gothic
streets and modern juxtapositions, we began at Església
de Santa Maria del Mar (Plaça de Santa Maria
del Mar), an imposing, weathered church built in 1329
that tells a story of hardworking fishermen and timeless
mysteries. Just around the corner, we discovered centuries-old
storefronts bursting with fashionable clothes and hip
accessories; we couldn’t resist the discounts on
last year’s designer threads at Outlet del Born
(Carrer Esparteria 12. Tel: 011-34-93-268-7249). Under
its undulating roof, the Mercat de Santa Caterina
revealed an eye-catching, nose-tickling series of food
stalls (Avinguda de Francesc Cambó 16. Tel: 011-24-93-319-5740.
www.mercatsantacaterina.net).
Filling a bag with cheese and fruit, we headed across
town for a picnic in the sun-kissed fairytale setting
of Park Güell. Couples, straight and gay, strolled
hand-in-hand while a Spanish guitar echoed from a sculpted
passage.
For a complete change of pace, we delved
into the burgeoning high tech zone called 22@Barcelona,
which is anchored by the dramatically-lit, cucumber-shaped
Torre Agbar (Plaça de Les Glòries.
www.torreagbar.com).
Our main destination was the recently opened ME Barcelona
(Carrer de Pere IV 272-286. Tel: 011-34-93-367-2050.
www.me-barcelona.com),
34-floors of model-friendly lounges, designer guest
rooms, and exclusive bars and restaurants. Amidst all
the reflected beauty, we slipped into the hotel’s
peaceful Yhi Spa for a cup of Rooibos Mint Tea and a
Saffron Double Massage. As my partner and I lay side-by-side
in a dimly lit, orange-splashed treatment room, two
gifted masseurs indulged us with skin-tingling feathers
and full-body strokes. Incredibly relaxing, the gentle
calm was highlighted by the sound of the masseurs whispered
instructions, and my partner’s deep and reassuring
sighs.
Continued
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